Poggioreale: Italy’s most charming ghost town
Italy counts several abandoned villages from which all life has disappeared. Most of them result from natural disasters or a lack of social-/economic perspective. Often these ghost towns are located in remarkable locations. Combined with dilapidated buildings, many of these villages appear like movie sets. If you ask me, this sounds ideal for an off-the-beaten-path trip.
Poggioreale (Google Maps) is one of Italy's famous ghost towns. It’s located in western Sicily, in the Belice Valley. Many Sicilians refer to this place as their modern Pompeii. But why?
Follow the (often hard to read) signs to Ruderi Poggioreale
On the night between the 14th and 15th of January 1968, ancient Poggioreale was hit by a natural disaster: the Belice earthquake. Four places, including Poggioreale, were completely destroyed, and another ten suffered severe damage. Gibellina and Poggioreale were the hardest-hit places.
Entrance of the abandoned town. You can easily climb over the wall on the left of the gate (though officially not allowed!)
The restoration of Poggioreale's buildings has been deemed uneconomical, and all that's left today is a collection of ruins. Just like Pompeii (and nearby Herculaneum), the ruined Sicilian town is frozen in time. It's a place of memory and provides insight into life from 50 to 60 years ago.
The whole town is frozen in time
Ancient Poggioreale was populated by about 4,000 inhabitants. After the earthquake, many of them moved to the United States and Australia. Others now inhabit the new village of Poggioreale, rebuilt at a safe distance some kilometers away.
Remains of what used to be a bathroom (left), and of a fuse box (right)
During one of my trips through western Sicily (May 2022), I visited ancient Poggioreale. As I walked through the streets of what has become one of Italy's largest ghost towns, I almost felt like I was strolling through an open-air museum. Everything is frozen at the exact time of the devastating earthquake. Some of the lifeless streets are filled with rubble, while others are almost entirely taken over by nature.
Corso Umberto I, the town's main street
In Corso Umberto I, the town's main street, I walked past the remains of the Town Hall and opposite an elementary school. The student's desks and chairs can still be seen in the school.
Student's desks and chairs inside the school (left), and the school's toilets (right)
At the end of Corso Umberto, I reached the town's central square, Piazza Elimo. The area is surrounded by ruins and at the far end are stone steps that lead to the higher part of the town. Poggioreale's main church once stood at the top, but unfortunately, only a fraction of its bell tower is left.
North side of Piazza Elimo with stone steps that lead to the ruins of the town's main church
Southern side of the same square
Standing in the middle of the square gave me an empty feeling. I imagined what life must have been like here. People enjoying the summer heat outside crowded bars or the sound of the church bell tolling. But today, there is only silence..
Local hospital next to Piazza Elimo
Walking through the rest of the village, I mainly came across abandoned houses. For obvious reasons, it's not recommended to enter the buildings, but it was possible to peak through doors and windows. Some of the dwellings still have beautifully painted ceilings. Luckily I had my drone with me (read more about flying your drone in Italy), so I was able to explore the upper floors of the buildings as well. From the air, I also had a fascinating view of the entire village and the scale of the disaster.
Ruins of Poggioreale from above with Piazzo Elimo and Corso Umberto in the middle
Altogether my visit to Poggioreale was a unique experience. Perhaps one of the most impressive in Sicily! Are you also planning to visit the ghost town as well? Be aware that the village is officially closed for security reasons. You can easily climb over the wall next to the gate (yes, we've got a badass over here), but this is at your own risk! Be careful!
