Farewell, Papa Francesco: transition from Sede Vacante to Habemus Papam
| Last updated: May 2025 |
Easter Monday 2025 is a day to remember — not just for me, but likely for many others. While on a short holiday in Sicily, I spent the morning visiting Palermo's Chiesa del Gesù. As I stood admiring the stunning interior, my phone suddenly rang. It was my mother.
Since I couldn't take the call then, I sent her a quick message saying I'd call her back later. Almost immediately, she responded with a link to a news article: Pope Francis had just died.
I knew the Pope had been struggling with his health for weeks. Still, the daily updates I received always said he was improving, little by little. A day ago, on Easter Sunday, Pope Francis even defied expectations and delivered the "Urbi et Orbi" blessing to Rome and the world.
After delivering the blessing, Francis greeted the cheering crowds in Piazza San Pietro from the Popemobile. It was his first time doing so since his hospitalization. And of course, no one could have known then that it would also be his final appearance.
Pope Francis during one of the Papal Audiences I attended.
When I heard that the Pope had passed away, I knew I had to go to Rome. I wanted to pay my respects to Francis, witness the Sede Vacante period, and stand on Piazza San Pietro until the moment a new Pope would step out onto the balcony. So I packed my bags and went.
In this post, I'll share my experiences of what unfolded in Rome in the days after Pope Francis' passing. But before that, let me give you a little background on the Pope's role and Jorge Mario Bergoglio's (Francis' real name) early life.
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Pope Francis' passing |
The role of the Pope
Let me start with briefly defining the role of the Pope. The Pope, whose title comes from the Latin papa meaning "father,"plays an interesting dual role. On one hand, he is the Bishop of Rome and spiritual guide for over 1.3 billion Catholics worldwide. Catholics believe he follows in Saint Peter's footsteps — the "rock" Jesus chose to build the Church. The Pope offers direction on matters of belief, speaks out on global issues like peace, poverty, and the environment, and reminds people of their shared humanity. When the Pope speaks, large parts of the world listen — not because of his political authority, but because of his moral weight.
Pope Francis concludes the year (2018) with presiding at the Te Deum and First Vespers for the Solemnity of Mary, Mother of God in the evening of New Year's Eve.
Speaking of politics, this brings me to the Pope's other role. In addition to serving as the Bishop of Rome, he also acts as the head of state of Vatican City, the independent city-state located within Rome. Beyond that, the Roman Catholic Church — and therefore the Pope — plays a major role in global education and healthcare. The Church runs thousands of schools, universities, and hospitals worldwide through its religious institutions, often reaching communities where resources are scarce.
Due to this position, people often consider the Pope one of the most influential figures in the world.
Did you know that St. Peter's Basilica isn’t actually the Catholic Church's mother church or the cathedral of the Diocese of Rome? Those titles belong to the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran in Rome. St. Peter's, however, is believed to be the burial place of Saint Peter. It also houses some of the world’s most famous artworks, including Michelangelo's Pietà (left) and Bernini's Altar of the Chair of St. Peter. Above the altar, a radiant alabaster window depicts the Holy Spirit as a dove (right).
Jorge Mario Bergoglio
Jorge Mario Bergoglio, born on 17 December 1936 in Buenos Aires, Argentina, grew up in a modest, hardworking family. His father, Mario, worked as a railway accountant, and his mother, Regina, managed the home. Bergoglio initially studied chemistry and earned a technician's diploma from a technical secondary school. He then worked in a food science lab and held various jobs, including as a chemical technician and even as a nightclub bouncer.
Then, in 1958, he joined the Society of Jesus and began his Jesuit formation. He studied humanities in Chile, earned a licentiate in philosophy in Argentina, and later taught literature and psychology at Jesuit high schools. After completing his theological studies, he was ordained a priest in 1969.
From there, Bergoglio stepped into leadership quickly. He led the Jesuits in Argentina during the country's military dictatorship and later ran a theological college. In 1992, the Church named him Auxiliary Bishop of Buenos Aires. He became archbishop in 1998 and joined the College of Cardinals in 2001.
Bergoglio embraced a simple lifestyle throughout his career, demonstrating his strong commitment to humility and service. This simplicity, grounded in his Jesuit formation, focused on poverty, obedience, and humility. His lifestyle stood out as a key aspect of his public image, reflecting his desire to stay connected with the people.
Pope Francis during one of the Papal Audiences I attended. Standing on the far left is Archbishop Georg Gänswein, who served for many years as Pope Benedict XVI's private secretary. His relationship with Pope Francis was frequently marked by tension.
Pope Benedict's resignation
You may remember that in 2013, Pope Benedict XVI resigned. Being the first papal resignation in nearly 600 years, the news sent shockwaves through the Church. The ensuing Conclave brought together 115 cardinals. Many expected an Italian or European Pope, but after several rounds of voting, the cardinals turned to someone from the periphery: Cardinal Bergoglio of Buenos Aires.
Bergoglio accepted the post with good humor. Cardinal Dolan, archbishop of New York, recalled: "When the Secretary of State toasted to him, he toasted back to us and said, 'I hope God forgives you.'"
Jorge Mario Bergoglio became the 266th pope and the first from the Americas. The Papal Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls displays a unique series of mosaic portraits of every pope, beginning with Saint Peter.
Then Bergoglio chose the name Francis (or Francesco in Italian) — after San Francesco d'Assisi. It was a name never used by a Pope before and showed his commitment to humility, peace, and care for the poor — values that San Francesco d'Assisi lived by. Choosing the name Francis was Bergoglio's way of setting the tone for his papacy: simple, compassionate, and focused on those in need.
Here you see the mosaic portraits of Pope Benedict XVI, Pope Francis, and an empty space reserved for Francis' successor. A spotlight illuminates the portrait of the reigning pope. When I last visited the Papal Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, that light still shone on Francis.
Pope Francis' papacy
From day one, Pope Francis set a new tone. He chose to live in a modest Vatican guesthouse (Casa Santa Marta) instead of the Apostolic Palace, the official papal residence. He washed the feet of Muslims, prisoners, and women during Holy Thursday Masses — breaking traditions to show inclusion and love.
Besides all that, he advocated for the poor and spoke out about climate change in his encyclical Laudato Si'. Francis also pushed the Church to be more inclusive and less judgmental, famously saying, "Who am I to judge?" when asked about gay priests. He didn't always change doctrine, but he changed the tone.
Pope Francis during one of the Papal Audiences I attended.
One particular image of Francis' 12 years as Pope stayed with me. It's a moment I didn't even witness in person. Nobody did. It was on 27 March 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic had just begun. As the world shut down, Pope Francis ascended the steps of the Basilica di San Pietro alone. It was raining that evening. The piazza was dramatically empty, but millions worldwide tuned in to him on television.
His message was one of hope and unity. He reminded us that we were "all in the same boat." Whether frightened by the virus, staying in the intensive care unit, or feeling lonely without relatives being able to see them, greet them, or even hold funerals for them. We should always remember that even in isolation, we're never truly alone.
Pope Francis during one of the Papal Audiences I attended. Several times, a gust of wind blew off his hat (known as a zucchetto), causing both him and the crowd to laugh.
Sede Vacante
During his papacy, Pope Francis faced several health challenges. He underwent colon surgery in 2021, struggled with chronic bronchitis, and suffered from severe knee pain that forced him to use a wheelchair. Despite these issues, he pressed on with remarkable resilience.
In early February 2025, doctors diagnosed him with bronchitis. His condition worsened rapidly, and he was hospitalized later that month. Medical evaluations revealed a polymicrobial respiratory tract infection and bilateral pneumonia, both complicated by bronchitis.
Things didn't look good. But after a while, I remember receiving daily updates, each reporting minor signs of improvement. Yet even with these signs, the Pope's health remained fragile.
A special edition of the Vatican newspaper L'Osservatore Romano, reporting the death of Pope Francis on Monday, 21 April at 7:35 in the morning.
Despite the expectations of many, Pope Francis made a public appearance on Easter Sunday. Visibly frail, he blessed the crowd in Piazza San Pietro. That same day, he even met with U.S. Vice President JD Vance after recent tensions between the Pope and the Trump administration over migrant deportation policies.
For a brief moment, it felt like things were getting back to normal. But the next morning, the Vatican shared some shocking news:
"This morning at 07:35 local time, the Bishop of Rome, Francis, returned to the home of the Father."
Pope Francis died on 21 April 2025 at the age of 88. A stroke, followed by irreversible cardiocirculatory collapse, ended his life. With his passing, the Catholic Church entered a period known as Sede Vacante, Latin for "the seat being vacant." This phase begins when the papal office becomes empty due to the death or resignation of the Pope. During Sede Vacante, Church leadership passes temporarily to the College of Cardinals, who manage daily affairs until a new pope is elected.
The deep, somber sound of St. Peter's biggest bell, Il Campanone, echoed through the Vatican, marking the Pope's passing and the start of the Sede Vacante (left). A few days later, the Vatican released special ”Sede Vacante MMXXV” stamps (right). They were valid for postage until the new pope was elected. Now serve as meaningful souvenirs of this historic moment.
The public viewing
The day after Pope Francis passed away, the Vatican announced it would hold a three-day public viewing inside the Basilica di San Pietro, starting Wednesday, 23 April. I had seen Francis in person several times, and saying a final goodbye felt important. So, I searched for the earliest chance to travel to Rome, and on Wednesday, I boarded the night train from Palermo to the Eternal City.
I arrived early Thursday morning, dropped my bag at the hotel, and went straight to Vatican City. As I made my way there, I overheard people mention a 5–6 hour queue on the first day of the viewing. That meant I had to prepare for a long wait.
Rome was already full of visitors and pilgrims for the Jubilee and the planned canonization of Carlo Acutis, but Pope Francis' passing and the public viewing drew even bigger crowds. By the time I got there, Via della Conciliazione was far busier than usual.
However, nothing could truly prepare me for what I walked into. It wasn't necessarily the crowd that got to me — it was the sheer number of cameras and reporters from all over the world. And then there was the line for the basilica. If you've ever tried getting in on a busy summer day, picture that queue and multiply it by at least ten!
At first, I felt like I stood in line forever, but after a while, it started moving steadily. Within 40 minutes, I walked through the basilica's Holy Door, which remains open throughout 2025 for the Jubilee.
Despite the crowds, the line to enter the Basilica di San Pietro moved steadily (left), and within 40 minutes, I walked through the basilica's Holy Door (right).
After another ten minutes, I stood in front of the wooden coffin. And there he lay — Pope Francis — dressed in simple white vestments, his hands gently folded. It felt unreal to see him like this. I thought back to the times I saw him alive, blessing everyone during Papal Audiences and during a moving end-of-year prayer I attended years ago. I even remembered the letter I once wrote to him — and the unexpected reply I got in return. I wanted to stay, to hold onto the moment a little longer. But the line kept moving steadily, and halfway through my thoughts, I had to step aside and let the next person take my place.
People from all over the world came to pay their respects to Pope Francis. Around 250,000 visited Vatican City during the three days of public viewing.
The funeral mass
On Friday evening, I walked around the Vatican and watched the final preparations for Pope Francis' funeral the following day. Police had already blocked access to Piazza San Pietro and Via della Conciliazione, and a quiet sense of anticipation hung in the air. I spoke with a few people who had attended John Paul II's funeral in 2005. They told me the police would reopen the area around 6:00 in the morning, but I'd need to show up earlier if I wanted to get anywhere near a seat on the piazza. So, I headed back to my hotel to rest for a few hours before the long day ahead.
On the evening before the funeral, police closed off access to Piazza San Pietro and Via della Conciliazione to allow final preparations for the following day.
My alarm rang at 3:00 in the night. I took a quick shower and headed back to Vatican City. When I arrived an hour later, I felt shocked again. Many people had already lined up, some having spent the night sleeping on the street in sleeping bags.
I somehow made my way to the front of the crowd. And then the waiting began. But honestly, it didn't feel long at all. Everyone felt excited, and I met many new people with whom I had great conversations. Time flew by, and before I knew it, it was 6:15. The police began letting people onto Via della Concilia. From there, most rushed straight toward Piazza San Pietro.
In the hours that followed, while I sat and watched, invited dignitaries arrived one by one and took their seats in front of me.
I passed through security and entered the piazza, where some seats were still available. I even found an empty front-row seat and quickly sat down. Every now and then, I looked over my shoulder as tens of thousands filled the rest of the square and Via della Conciliazione. Meanwhile, invited dignitaries arrived in front of me and began to take their seats. Among them, I clearly recognized Javier Milei, president of Pope Francis' native Argentina, Italy's Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, and Italian President Sergio Mattarella.
Behind me, tens of thousands of people filled up the rest of Piazza San Pietro and Via della Conciliazione.
Just after 10:00, church bells rang out, marking the start of the ceremony. Moments later, pallbearers emerged, carrying Francis' coffin down the basilica's central aisle and into the piazza. Cardinals in vivid red robes lined the path in silence, then followed in a dignified procession.
Once all the cardinals had taken their seats, Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re began the funeral mass. He led the congregation through solemn rituals, including religious hymns and an emotional homily. In his heartfelt words, Re described Francis as "a pope among the people, with an open heart towards everyone."
After pallbearers carried Pope Francis’ coffin outside, the Book of the Gospels was placed open on top of it. Then Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re began the funeral Mass.
During the mass, I was struck by how special it felt to be there. The rituals impressed me, but what touched me more was standing with so many people sharing quiet mourning. Even with about 200,000 others present, the atmosphere remained calm, respectful, and deeply moving. I know I will carry this moment with me forever.
After about two hours, and amid heartfelt applause from the crowd, the pallbearers lifted the coffin and brought it back into the basilica. They entered through the "Door of Death," the leftmost door in the basilica's narthex, traditionally used for funeral processions — hence its name.
After about two hours, the ceremony came to an end. It was time for a final goodbye to Pope Francis. Amid heartfelt applause from the crowd, the pallbearers lifted the coffin and carried it into the basilica. From there, they placed it on the Popemobile for the journey to Francis' burial place in the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Once the coffin was back inside, the cardinals followed into the basilica.
Salus Populi Romani
Most Popes rest beneath the Basilica di San Pietro, but Francis chose something different. He became the first Pope in over a century buried outside the Vatican. He asked for a simple tomb inside the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome's largest Marian church, often seen as the first Marian sanctuary.
The Salus Populi Romani in the Borghese Chapel of the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. Over the twelve years of his papacy, Pope Francis prayed before this icon 126 times.
Why did Francis choose Santa Maria Maggiore as his final resting place? He deeply venerated the Virgin Mary and always prayed in the basilica before and after trips abroad. He knelt before the famous icon enshrined in the Borghese Chapel, known as Salus Populi Romani ("Protectress of the Roman People"). This icon, believed to be painted by Saint Luke the Evangelist, reportedly saved Rome from the plague.
Francis specified in his will that his tomb must lie beside the Borghese Chapel, near the Salus Populi Romani. He also wrote, "the tomb must be in the earth; simple, without particular decoration and with the only inscription: Franciscus." These precise instructions reveal how deeply he valued simplicity.
Pope Francis's final resting place in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome.
The Conclave
After the funeral, the Vatican began the traditional nine days of mourning, known as the novemdiales. Meanwhile, the College of Cardinals gathered to prepare for the upcoming Conclave, the sacred and secretive assembly that would elect a new pope. The word conclave comes from the Latin cum clave, meaning "with a key," referring to the historical practice of locking the cardinals away to shield the election from outside influence.
This tradition dates back to the Middle Ages. After Pope Clement IV died in 1268, eighteen cardinals gathered in Viterbo's papal palace to elect his successor. They couldn't decide for three years! Frustrated, the people of Viterbo locked them inside and walled up the doors. Eventually, they chose Teobaldo Visconti, who wasn't a cardinal or priest, as Pope Gregory X. He later formalized the conclave procedures and wrote them into Church law.
The Conclave is held in the Sistine Chapel, beneath Michelangelo's famous frescoes, including "The Last Judgement." This painting, which covers the entire altar wall, is partially visible in the photo above. Michelangelo's masterpiece portrays the Second Coming of Christ and the final, eternal judgment of humanity. The dead are shown rising or falling toward their destinies, as Christ — surrounded by prominent saints — delivers judgment.
Today, the Conclave takes place in the Sistine Chapel under strict protocols designed to preserve both confidentiality and spiritual focus. Before the Conclave begins, the cardinals celebrate the Pro Eligendo Romano Pontifice Mass and pray for the guidance of the Holy Spirit. Once inside, they take an oath of secrecy, and Vatican officials cut off all communication with the outside world. They also ban electronic devices to prevent leaks.
The cardinals vote in a series of secret ballots — two times in the morning and in the afternoon, except on the first day when they only cast one ballot. A candidate must receive a two-thirds majority to become Pope.
After each series, scrutineers toss all the ballot sheets into a special stove and burn them. If the vote ends inconclusive, they add chemicals to create black smoke. But when the cardinals finally reach a decision, white smoke rises from the chimney atop the Sistine Chapel. That magical moment is exactly what the crowd outside — and millions worldwide — hold their breath to see.
In the days leading up to the Conclave, firefighters install the small but crucial chimney atop the Sistine Chapel (left). Before the Conclave officially begins, the cardinals take an oath of secrecy — a ritual that spectators can follow on large screens set up in Piazza San Pietro (right). In the photo on the right, you can see Cardinal Robert Prevost (standing on the left), who would be elected Pope Leo XIV the following day.
Habemus papam!
On Wednesday, 7 May, the Conclave began, and around 15:00, I once more stood on Piazza San Pietro. From there, I watched the prayer service in the Pauline Chapel on a large monitor. When the service ended, 133 cardinal electors entered the Sistine Chapel and swore an oath of secrecy. Following this, the papal master of ceremonies called out "Extra omnes," ordering all non-electors to leave. He then shut the doors of the Sistine Chapel.
I remember feeling excited, even though seeing white smoke that evening seemed unlikely. Still, anything could happen, right? The waiting began, and I again entertained myself by chatting with others in the piazza. We shared our thoughts on the Papabili — those cardinals everyone whispers about as frontrunners — and I was fascinated by hearing why each person had their favorite.
More and more people filled Piazza San Pietro and Via della Conciliazione. In total, around 45,000 people waited eagerly for smoke to rise from the chimney.
Time passed, and nobody knew exactly when smoke would rise from the Sistine Chapel's chimney. Based on past Conclaves, I knew the most likely moments would be around:
10:30, after the first ballot. Nothing happens if this ballot is inconclusive and the cardinals go for a second vote. Otherwise, of course, white smoke appears.
12:00, after the second ballot. This time, the smoke can either be black or white. If both of the morning ballots are inconclusive, black smoke appears.
17:30, after the third ballot. Just like after the first vote, nothing happens if this ballot is inconclusive. So, only white smoke might appear.
19:00, after the fourth (or only) ballot of the day. At this time, the smoke may again be white or black.
And so, around 19:00, everyone gazed at the chimney, but nothing happened. Half an hour later, still no smoke. By 20:00? Nothing. I waited along with 45,000 others as darkness slowly fell over the square. Then, around 21:00, black smoke! It meant the first vote had failed to elect a new Pope.
The next day, I returned to Piazza San Pietro and arrived around 9:00 in the morning. Nothing happened by 10:30, but at 11:45, I saw black smoke rise from the chimney again.
Finally, around 21:00 on day one of the Conclave, smoke appeared — but it was black, meaning no pope had been chosen yet. The next morning at 11:45, black smoke rose again.
During the last two Conclaves, the cardinals elected a new Pope on the fourth or fifth ballot. Would the same happen this time? I clearly wasn't the only one wondering because more and more people gathered at the piazza later that afternoon. We all waited, but around 17:30, no smoke appeared. Everyone now looked forward to 19:00.
Just after 18:00, two seagulls and a baby seagull landed beside the chimney. Someone behind me joked that the chick symbolized new life and renewal — a sure sign, he said, that white smoke would follow soon. It made us smile. Could it really happen?
Then, at 18:07, just as I kept my eyes on the baby seagull, white smoke burst out! Apparently, the day's third ballot took more time, but whatever.. There's a new Pope!! Moments later, the basilica's bells started ringing, and the piazza exploded with pure, overwhelming joy. It was unlike anything I'd experienced before. Nothing compares, and no words can capture that moment. It was a wonderful, truly unique experience that I'll always remember.
At 18:07, white smoke billowed from the chimney, glowing in the golden light of the setting sun just before it slipped behind the buildings. As soon as people saw it, the square exploded with joy. There's a new Pope!
At that moment, no one knew who the new Pope was — we could only wait and wonder. An hour passed, all eyes locked on the basilica's central balcony. Then, at last, the doors swung open. The cardinal protodeacon stepped onto the loggia, ready to speak the words we had all longed to hear.
"Annuntio vobis gaudium magnum, habemus papam."
It means, "I announce to you with great joy, we have a Pope." The piazza burst into cheers once more. Following this, he announced the new Pope: Robert Prevost, who would now be known as Pope Leo XIV. A brief silence followed — the Latin left most of us guessing — but soon applause again filled the air.
About an hour after the white smoke appeared from the chimney, Cardinal Protodeacon Dominique Mamberti stepped onto the loggia. Amid cheers, he announced, "Annuntio vobis gaudium magnum." The applause grew louder, making him pause briefly before continuing: "Habemus papam." And at that moment, Piazza San Pietro erupted with joy once more. After the announcement, the cardinal stepped back inside, and papal aides unfurled a large banner, draping it over the balcony railing. At the same time, the side windows swung open and several cardinals appeared.
Moments later, Pope Leo XIV stepped onto the balcony and gave his first blessing. He spoke in Italian: "La pace sia con tutti voi" — peace be with you all.
I've got to admit, I had no clue who Robert Prevost was. He hadn't come up in any of the Papabili talks I'd heard the past few days. Next to me, I heard someone saying he was from the U.S. and had spent years in Peru. That's all I learned right then. The rest stayed a mystery until I started reading in the following days.
Moments later, Pope Leo XIV stepped onto the balcony and gave his first blessing. He spoke in Italian: "La pace sia con tutti voi" — peace be with you all.
That magical moment on Piazza San Pietro stayed with me for hours. Watching history unfold and feeling the joy in the air made it truly special. I doubt standing on the piazza will ever feel the same again. Still, I'm already looking forward to my next trip to Rome, where I plan to attend a Papal Audience and watch Pope Leo XIV in action firsthand.
I doubt standing on the piazza will ever feel the same again after this experience.
