Assisi: a complete guide through the birthplace of San Francesco
My first visit to Umbria and the city of Assisi was back in 2017. A year before that, I had already caught a glimpse of the region. It was winter and due to some disruptions, I had to take a regional train from Rome to Florence. Staring out the train window, I saw Umbria's rolling hills and charming medieval villages. It reminded me of an essay by Henry James: 'A Chain of Italian Cities' (1874).
"But the winter atmosphere in these regions has often an extraordinary charm; it seems to smile with a tender sense of being sole heir to the duty of cheering man's heart. It gave such a charm to the broken bridge, the little walled town, and the trudging friar, that I turned away with an impatient vow that in some blessed springtime of the future I would take the journey again and pause to my heart's content at Narni, at Spoleto, at Assisi, at Perugia, at Cortona, at Arezzo. But we have generally to clip our vows a little when we come to fulfill them; and so it befell that when my blessed springtime arrived, I had to begin resignedly at Assisi.”
Just like Henry James, I vowed to come back. And so I did. The following year I returned to Umbria and visited Assisi first.
View over Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco
The medieval hill town is best known for being the birthplace of San Francesco, founder of the Franciscan religious order in 1208. It means you cannot complete a trip to Assisi without following in the footsteps of millions of pilgrims and visiting the Basilica di San Francesco.
But luckily you don't have to be religious to enjoy Assisi. Besides the many beautifully decorated churches, the town is home to several Roman ruins and an imposing fortress. On top of that, Assisi is an ideal starting point for those who want to hike through Umbria's green hills. This combination of culture and landscape has even earned Assisi a place on Unesco's list of World Heritage!
Around December the medieval streets of Assisi are lined with Christmas lights, and you'll find nativity scenes near every church. In fact, it was San Francesco who 'invented' the first nativity scene.
Since my first visit, I have returned to Assisi several times. It even became one of my favorite destinations in December. Around this time of the year, the wintery weather casts a magical atmosphere over the medieval village!
Are you planning on visiting Assisi yourself? Let me tell you how to get there and the top things to do and see. Let's find out in the guide below!
Also, don't forget to read my post about the history of Umbria. It might help you put some stories in perspective and get the most out of your trip.
Map with the highlights of Assisi (Google Maps, pdf)
How to reach?
By car: bear in mind that a large part of the historic center is a ZTL (zone of restricted circulation). Simply navigate to Piazza Giovanni Paolo II (Google Maps). This parking area is relatively close to most sights. Alternatively, you can park your car at Piazza Porta Nuova (Google Maps). From here, it's a 15 to 30-minute walk to the historic center.
By train: you'll find Assisi's train station in the adjacent town called Santa Maria degli Angeli. It's about 3 km away from the historic center. You can take a bus (see below) or have a walk along the 'Mattonata.' It's the nickname of the brick path set into the sidewalk leading from Santa Maria degli Angeli to Assisi. You'll notice the many names on the paving bricks along the route. In case you wonder: Assisi was heavily damaged in the 1997 earthquake. As part of the repair plans, people could 'adopt' a brick and have their names inscribed on them. In 2000 however, it turned out that millions of donations were missing, and the fundraiser was arrested.
By bus: you can also take bus line C. It stops directly in front of the train station. In less than 10 minutes, you'll arrive at Piazza Unità d'Italia (Google Maps). From here, the historic center is just a few steps away. A one-way ticket costs €1.30 when purchased at the newsstand inside the train station or €1.50 when bought onboard.
Assisi train station
#1 Basilica di San Francesco
With a few million visitors a year, the Basilica di San Francesco is, without any doubt, Assisi's most famous sight. This also means the church can be very crowded. So, to avoid the mob as much as possible, make the basilica your first stop when visiting Assisi. Preferably early in the morning. For the enthusiasts: the basilica opens as early as 6 in the morning!
Chances are that your visit to Assisi will start at the Porta San Pietro (Google Maps). This medieval gate is located across the bus stop and parking area I mentioned earlier. Pass through the gate and turn left. After a 5-minute walk you'll arrive at Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco (Google Maps). Notice the arcades? They date back to 1474. The arcades were used by pilgrims to refresh themselves and to host commercial activities. Once you've reached the other side of the square, you'll find yourself in front of the basilica's entrance.
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Before you enter, realize that the church is a true art lover's paradise. Here I'll only mention the highlights. If you want to know more, please also read my separate post about the Basilica di San Francesco and the Saint's life.
When standing on Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco, you can see that the basilica is actually composed of two churches. The first is the Chiesa Inferiore (Lower Church), and the second is the Chiesa Superiore (Upper Church). Below the Basilica Inferiore there is a crypt where the remains of the Saint are buried. Let's enter the Basilica Inferiore!
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Now tell me. Was I right about calling the church an art lover's paradise? Have a look at all the frescos on the walls of the nave! On the left, you'll see five frescoes depicting scenes from the life of San Francesco, and on the right, you'll see five frescoes depicting the life of Jesus.
The nave provides access to several chapels. The one chapel I want to highlight here is the third chapel on the right side of the nave. This is the Cappella della Maddalena. The frescoes show various biblical scenes, including the Resurrection of Lazarus and the Dinner in the House of the Pharisee. These paintings are probably the work of Giotto, one of the first great Italian masters. Some even refer to him as the father of European painting.
You can find more of Giotto's (or his followers') work on the right of the church's altar. But look closely. Do you notice that some frescoes, such as the Four Angels, have a different style? They're the works of Cimabue, a Florentine medieval painter, described in Dante Alighieri's Divina Comedia as the artist surpassed only by Giotto.
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Let's move on to the Basilica Superiore. Get ready for some of Italy's most famous works of art: a cycle of 28 frescoes depicting the life of San Francesco! Art historians disagree about who painted the cycle of frescoes. Most believe it to be the work of Giotto and his assistants, but some point to differences in style between the cycle in Assisi and the frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padova.
Whoever painted them, the frescoes are magnificent to look at. Just sit down and admire them one by one. What is your favorite scene?
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Open: Basilica Inferiore; Mon - Sun 6:00 to 18:30,
Crypt; Mon - Sun 6:00 to 18:00,
Basilica Superiore; Mon - Sun 8:30 to 17:45
Entry fees: Entrance to the basilica is free
#2 Pinacoteca Comunale (Palazzo Vallemani)
Are you up for more medieval and renaissance art? Take the basilica's upper exit and follow Via San Francesco (Google Maps) towards the historic center. In less than 5 minutes, you'll arrive at Palazzo Vallemani.
This 17th-century palazzo was initially the residence of the Giacobetti noble family and later of the Vallemani. Today it hosts the Pinacoteca Comunale, or Municipal Art Gallery. Their collection includes a large group of frescoes from the 13th up to the 16th century. Most artworks come from public buildings, city gates, hospices, and fraternities. The works were collected halfway through the 19th century to preserve Assisi's artistic heritage.
Via San Francesco with the Pinacoteca Comunale (Palazzo Vallemani) on the right
You'll find the most important piece of the collection right at the beginning of the exhibition. It's the Majesty. The work is attributed to Giotto and comes from Assisi's Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. This palazzo was home to the 'Captain of the People', a powerful medieval figure representing the bourgeoisie and workers in city assemblies.
Majesty, attributed to Giotto di Bondone
Also noteworthy is The Madonna and Child in a landscape under an arch of seraphim. It was detached from the Porta San Giacomo. This old city gate is part of the section of wall between the city and Rocca Maggiore. You can recognize the gate by the cypress tree that grows on top of it.
The Madonna and Child is attributed to Andrea d'Assisi, nicknamed l'Ingegno (the Ingenious). He is said to have been a pupil (together with the famous Raphael) under Perugino and to have assisted the latter in the Sistine Chapel.
The Madonna and Child, attributed to Andrea d'Assisi
The Pinacoteca's admission fee is €3-. You can also buy a combined ticket (€9,-) which gives access to the Roman Forum (our next stop) and Rocca Maggiore.
Sala di Tiberio d'Assisi
Open: Wed - Mon 10:00 to 17:30, closed on Tuesdays
Entry fees: Entrance to the Pinacoteca is either €3,- or €9,- (combined ticket)
#3 Roman Forum & Archaeological Museum
Enough renaissance art for now. Let's go further back in time.
From the 9th century BC, Assisi was the location of a tiny village founded by Umbrians. For centuries the Umbrians had ruled the region, but in 295 BC, this came to an end. After the decisive Battle of Sentinum, the Romans seized control of Central Italy. They also gave the village on the slopes of Monte Subasio the name of Asisium (now Assisi). Over time Asisium grew out to be of significant importance. In 83 BC, Asisium even became a Roman municipium! Today some Roman remains are still visible.
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Let's visit Assisi's Roman Forum first! It's hidden underneath today's Piazza del Comune. To get there, turn left after exiting the Pinacoteca. At the T-junction, turn left again. Within two minutes, you'll be standing in front of the entrance of the Roman Forum.
The entrance leads to the underground Romanesque crypt of the former church of San Nicolò. Here you'll find artifacts such as capitals, Roman inscriptions, and several funeral monuments from necropolises around Assisi.
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Next, walk down the corridor. Beneath the glass walkway, you can see the original surface of the Roman forum. The left wall is part of the base on which the temple of Minerva was constructed. You can still see the two entrances and stairs to the temple.
Halfway down the corridor, you'll come across a U-shaped stage. It was probably a sort of tribunal for public speakers.
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Next to the tribunal, you'll find a tunnel that leads to the remains of a tetrastyle temple dedicated to Castor and Pollux. The temple dates back to the first half of the 1st century AD. On the back of it, you can still see an inscription that gives the names of the people who funded its construction.
The last section of the corridor leads you past a monumental cistern and some tabernae. These were small shops on the east side of the forum.
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Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 19:00 (this seems to change per season)
Entry fees: Entrance to the Roman Forum is either €5,- or €9,- (combined ticket)
#4 Temple of Minerva
Back outside, turn left. After a few steps, you'll find yourself standing in the charming Piazza del Comune, Assisi's main square.
The piazza occupies the site of the ancient Roman forum. Do you remember the wall of a temple's base that we saw earlier? Now look to the left. There stands the Temple of Minerva, the temple that is built on the (now underground) base. Imagine the temple, elevated on a five meters high podium, and without the surrounding (medieval) buildings. It really must have dominated the Roman forum back in the day.
The former Temple of Minerva today houses the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva
The Temple of Minerva dates back to the late 1st century BC and has all the characteristics of a typical Roman temple. It originally had a rectangular floor plan and was constructed on top of a high podium. It also has a clear front with Corinthian columns that form a portico and carry a triangular pediment.
Close-up of the Corinthian columns
The classic beauty of the temple has awed many of its visitors. The famous painter Giotto reproduced it on a fresco in the Basilica di San Francesco, and the architect Palladio considered the structure as one of the main examples of ancient buildings.
Reproduction of the Temple of Minerva on one of the frescoes in the Basilica Superiore
The discovery of a female statue led to the belief that the temple was dedicated to Minerva. Minerva is the Roman equivalent of the Greek Athena, goddess and protector of cities. However, the more recent discovery of a dedication plaque to Hercules made it seem more likely to be dedicated to him.
After Constantine made Christianity the main religion of Rome, the pagan temple was abandoned. More than a century later, Benedictine monks restored the building and turned it into a church dedicated to San Donato. Later, during the 13th century, the structure became Assisi's city hall and even included a tribunal and a jail.
Statue of Santa Maria above the altar (left), and drain in the original Roman floor where blood sacrifices took place (right)
In 1539, Pope Paul III ordered the temple to be restored and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Since then, the temple has carried the name of Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
During the restoration works, the temple's cella (the inner chamber of a Roman temple) was completely demolished, and the building was reworked in a Baroque style. Fortunately, some old parts of the Roman temple can still be seen. Just go up by the altar. From here, you can see the original Roman floors, as well as the drains in the floor where blood sacrifices took place. Behind the statues, you can also see some traces of the temple's original walls.
Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 22:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#5 Casa Natale di San Francesco
Now let's skip forward in time and head to the place where San Francesco was born. It's a must-see for anyone on a Saint Francis pilgrimage.
To get there, from Piazza del Comune, walk down the Corso Giuseppe Mazzini. After about 100 meters, you'll come across a passageway (on your left) with a colorful bas relief above the entrance. At the end of the passage is the Oratory of San Francesco Piccolino (Google Maps).
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The inscription above the oratorio's doorway reads: "Hoc oratorium fuit bovis et asini stabilium in quo natis est sanctus Franciscus mundi speculum." Meaning: this oratory was the stable of an ox and a donkey in which San Francesco, mirror of the world, was born.
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Tradition has it that this was a stable where Francesco's mother, Pica de Bourlemont, gave birth to her son. See the resemblance to Mary, Jesus' mother, who also gave birth to her son in an animal shelter? Fiction or not, point of the story is that Francesco's life was modeled on that of Jesus.
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Not far from the Oratory of San Francesco Piccolino, is the Chiesa Nuova. The church is built where the house and workshop of Pietro di Bernardone, Francesco's father, once stood. The young Francesco lived here with his family until he was 20 years old and took part in a military expedition against Perugia (also check my post about the life of San Francesco).
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In front of the Chiesa Nuova is an intimate square with a bronze statue of Francesco's parents. If you look closely, you can see that Francesco's mother has a broken iron chain in her hands. It is said that to have the San Damiano Church repaired, Francesco sold some cloth from his father's workshop. When his father found out, he was furious and chained Francesco in a storage room. By doing so, Bernadone tried to force Francesco back into the silk merchant procession and to take over his father's thriving business. However, Francesco's mother helped him escape by breaking the chains, hence the broken chains on the statue.
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The inscription above the entrance to the church also refers to this story. It reads: "The house of Francesco's parents has become a temple of God, while the prison where he was locked up by his father is still visible."
Unfortunately, it's not allowed to take photos inside the church, but once inside, you'll notice that on your left, there is a reconstruction of the storage room where Francesco was chained for weeks. To the left of the altar, a door leads you to an area that reveals more of the old house and workshop.
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Open: Mon - Sun 08:00 to 12:30 / 14:30 to 19:15
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#6 San Damiano
The next stop played a very important part in the spiritual life of San Francesco. It is the convent and church of San Damiano, located about 2 km from the Chiesa Nuova.
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At age 20, Francesco participated in a military expedition against Perugia. But due to his lack of combat experience, enemy soldiers quickly captured him. When Francesco was released, he returned to Assisi as a different man. Instead of working, he spent more and more time in quiet churches around Assisi. One day Francesco was praying in front of an old crucifix in the dilapidated field chapel of San Damiano. Suddenly he heard the voice of the Lord: "Francesco, Francesco, go and repair My house, which, as you can see, is falling into ruins." This Miracle of the Crucifix is one of the scenes painted by Giotto on the wall of the Upper Basilica of San Francesco.
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Now Francesco had a mission. As I mentioned earlier, this miraculous event led to Francesco selling cloth from his father's store to raise money for the church's restoration. Later Francesco came to realize that God's message to him was to restore the entire Catholic Church rather than literally repair one stone structure.
In 1212 the convent of San Damiano became the home of Santa Chiara of Assisi and her followers. I'll tell you more about Santa Chiara at our next stop.
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Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 12:00 / 14:00 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#7 Basilica di Santa Chiara
On your way back to the historic center, you'll come across the Basilica di Santa Chiara. The church was built after the death of Chiara and is another important place of worship in Assisi.
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But who was Chiara? In 1212, San Francesco preached at the Cathedral of San Rufino. Among his audience was a young woman named Chiara Offreduccio (better known as Clara, Clare, or Santa Chiara). Influenced by Francesco's preaching, she too longed for a life of prayer and devotion to God.
Chiara's parents, however, had other plans and wanted her to get married. Chiara saw no other way than to escape from her father's home, and she proceeded to the Porziuncola, a tiny chapel just outside Assisi. Here she asked Francesco to help her live in a manner worthy of the Gospel. Francesco then cut her hair and exchanged her rich gown for a plain robe and veil. After that, he took Chiara to a convent of Benedictine nuns. Not much later, her sister Agnes came to join her. Their father was outraged and attempted to force the girls to return home, but without success.
Eventually, Chiara and her sister moved to a small accommodation next to the church of San Damiano. Other women joined them, and they became known as the 'Poor Clares.' The women lived a simple life according to a rule Francesco gave them as a Second Order.
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Chiara died at San Damiano in 1253 and was canonized in 1255 by Pope Alexander IV. The construction of the Basilica di Santa Chiara began a year after Chiara's canonization.
The positioning of the basilica does not seem haphazard. It almost faces the Basilica di San Francesco on the other side of Assisi. And when we look at the facade, it also resembles the Basilica Superiore. It is divided into three levels, each with alternating bands of pink and white stone. Except for the Gothic rose window, there is little other decoration. The left side of the basilica is characterized by three large buttresses that reinforce the structure. These were added at the end of the 14th century.
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The church's interior is somewhat simple, but take a look inside the right transept at the back of the basilica. Unfortunately, taking pictures inside the church is not allowed, but here you'll find a gorgeous fresco cycle with scenes from the life of Chiara. The anonymous Master of Santa Chiara painted the cycle in the late 13th century.
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On the right side of the nave, you'll also find a chapel. It is the former chapel of San Giorgio. Hanging above the altar is a 12th-century cross. It is the crucifix - from the small church of San Damiano - in front of which Francesco prayed and felt that God had ghosts to him.
Also, make sure to go down the stairs into the crypt to see the tomb of Santa Chiara.
Open: Mon - Sun 06:30 to 12:00 / 14:00 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#8 Cattedrale di San Rufino
The next church that I want to tell you about is the Cattedrale di San Rufino. For the record: a cathedral is a church that contains the bishop's throne, thus serving as the central church of a diocese. It gives a cathedral a greater status than a basilica. Most people assume the Basilica di San Francesco is the city's cathedral. However, at the time of Francesco's birth, the San Rufino had already served as Assisi's cathedral for almost 150 years.
The cathedral is dedicated to San Rufino, the first Christian Bishop and patron saint of Assisi. His body is buried under the cathedral's high altar, but I'll come to that later.
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The cathedral has been important in the history of the Franciscan order. Here both Francesco and Chiara were brought to be baptized. It was also here that Chiara heard Francisco preach. As you now know, this event had a profound influence on her life.
Stand in the piazza for a few minutes before entering and have a look at the facade. It's a typical example of the Umbrian-Romanesque style.
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The lower section has three beautifully decorated portals. Above the (main) entrance, you see a bas-relief of Christ sitting on a throne between sun and moon. I'm sure not about the symbolic meaning, but I think it signifies either Jesus as the light of the world, or the resolving of all dualities in Christ. Anyway, next to Christ, there are two other figures. They are San Rufino and Virgin Mary breastfeeding the Child.
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In the middle section of the facade is a large rose window. It is supported by three telamons (figures of men (often Atlas) used as a pillar for support) standing on animals. Around the window, four other symbols can be seen as well. They represent the four evangelists: Matthew (angel), Mark (lion), John (eagle), and Luke (ox).
As you enter the church, go to the far right-hand corner. Here you can still see the font where both Francesco and Chiara were baptized. To be honest, compared to the other churches in Assisi, to me the rest of the interior of the San Rufino felt like an anti-climax.
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If you want, you can visit the cathedral's crypt (for a modest entrance fee). Here you'll find a pagan Roman sarcophagus from the 3rd century. The bas-relief on the sarcophagus depicts the myth of the shepherd Endymion, who caught the eye of Selene, goddess of the moon. Selene was so impressed she asked Zeus to grant Endymion eternal youth to match hers. However, Selene was so into Endymion's beautiful sleeping face that she had Zeus keep him in eternal sleep. The sleep of Endymion became a popular funerary motif in Roman art. Even though it was a pagan sarcophagus, tradition has it that it was used as the final resting place of San Rufino.
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The crypt also gives access to the Diocesan Museum. This museum was founded in 1941 to preserve and display precious works of art from the cathedral. The collection goes back all the way to the Roman era.
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Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 13:00 / 15:00 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free, entrance to the museum is €3,50
#9 Rocca Maggiore
While exploring the historic center of Assisi, you may have noticed the imposing castle high above the town. It's the Rocca Maggiore, a fortress that dominated the citadel of Assisi for more than 800 years.
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Today the Rocca mainly offers breathtaking views over Assisi's most famous landmarks. You can see the Cattedrale di San Rufino, the Basilica di Santa Chiara, and the Basilica di San Francesco. In the distance you can also see a smaller fortress, the Rocca Minore.
You'll need to walk your way up to the Rocca Maggiore. The best time to do so is just before sunset. Around this time of day, temperatures are pleasant, and the view will be even more magical. BUT! Please note that the Rocca is temporarily closed (September 2022), and it's unclear when the restoration works will be finished. Don't be disappointed though, because from up the hill you'll still have fantastic views!
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I'll tell you some more about the Rocca anyway. The first historical mention of the castle dates back to 1173. Back then, the Archbishop of Mainz sacked Assisi on behalf of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Later, in 1198, a local uprising tower down the stronghold. The ruins of the fortress remained neglected until 1362 when the Spanish cardinal Egidio Albornoz decided to rebuild it.
Those who have also visited Spoleto and/or Orvieto may recognize the name of the cardinal. Albornoz had been sent to Umbria by Pope Innocent VI to oversee the construction of a series of fortresses. The fortresses –including the ones in Assisi, Spoleto, and Orvieto– had to re-affirm the papal authority in Central Italy.
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Over time the fortress was enlarged several times, but after the 16th century, it lost its primary defensive function. The Rocca Maggiore became a residence of the castellans and later even a prison and a warehouse!
Inside the Rocca, you'll find lots of information about life in the Middle Ages, and throughout the complex there are figures in medieval clothes, musical instruments, and weapons. The exhibition is perfect when you visit the fortress with kids. Otherwise, just go straight up to the top of the tower and enjoy the views!
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Open: Temporarily closed
Entry fees: Entrance to the fortress is either €6,- or €9,- (combined ticket)
#10 Eremo delle Carceri
If you're interested in the life of San Francesco or want to enjoy Umbria's nature, I recommend a hike to the Eremo delle Carceri (click the link for the route).
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The Eremo delle Carceri is a hermitage located about 5 kilometers from the historic center of Assisi. Back in the time of Francesco, the rocky area only had some caves used as 'cells' for individual friars and a small central oratory. Here Francesco and his followers retreated to meditate and pray in solitude and silence. Later, in the 15th century, a monastery was added to the site.
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On the side of the oratory, a narrow passage leads down to the Grotto di San Francesco. This is the cave where the Saint is said to have isolated himself to pray and meditate.
When you exit the cave, you'll see a path that leads into the forest. A walk through the forest takes you past the caves and the chapels where other companions of Francesco once retreated.
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You can also see a centuries-old holm oak at the beginning of the forest. According to legend, this is the tree on which the birds have gathered to be blessed by San Francesco. Inside the Basilica di San Francesco you might have seen the famous fresco by Giotto that portrays this scene.
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Open: Mon - Sat 06:30 to 18:00, Sun 07:15 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the hermitage is free
#11 Baci di Assisi
You cannot leave Assisi without having tried some Baci di Assisi (Kisses of Assisi). These delicious pastries made of almonds are usually eaten by dipping them in coffee, or as a kind of dessert along with some wine.
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Most Italian kiss-pastries are composed of two half spheres attached to each other by a cream. But in Assisi they don't. The classic Baci di Assisi are more like soft pastries made of almond paste and covered with sliced almonds. Some shops also sell variations like Baci with pistachio grains, chocolate, or a custard heart.
Italian pastries often have their roots in local history. The different regions, provinces, and municipalities have always been a precious source of recipes and anecdotes. The Baci di Assisi are no exception. Some say its origin is closely linked to the famous story about San Francesco and a leper.
One day, while riding his horse near Assisi, Francesco ran into a man suffering from leprosy. The mere sight of a leper had always filled him with horror and disgust. So, like most people, Francesco kept a close distance from the leper. However, when he had barely past the man, something prompted him to get off his horse. Francesco walked towards the leper, hugged him, and kissed him on the cheek. After Francesco mounted his horse again, he turned to greet the leper, but the man had disappeared. It then dawned on him that it was Jesus whom he had just kissed.
Francesco later mentioned the event in his will. He wrote:
"While I was in sin, it seemed very bitter to me to see lepers. And the Lord Himself led me among them and I had mercy upon them. And when I left them, that which seemed bitter to me was changed into sweetness of soul and body; and afterward I lingered a little and left the world."
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Perhaps the sliced almonds on the Baci di Assisi are supposed to make the pastry appear bitter (almonds can taste bitter), but once you take a bite, you'll taste the pastry's sweetness.
Whether this explanation is true or not, you should definitely try some Baci! They also make the perfect gift for friends or family. My favorite place to buy them is Terra Umbra Antica (Google Maps), a small shop not far from the train station.
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#12 Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli
I'd like to end this Assisi guide with one last church. The Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Inside this church, you'll find both the primitive Porziuncola chapel and the Cappella del Transito.
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The Porziuncola
Being located directly under the dome of the basilica, the Porziuncola immediately grabs your attention. The chapel dates back to the 10th or 11th century and was given to San Francesco by the Benedictines. After Francesco restored the Porziuncola chapel, he made it his residence and founded the Franciscan Order there. This makes the Porziuncola one of the most important Franciscan places.
The church is decorated with frescoes from different periods. Above the entrance is a fresco by Johann Friedrich Overbeck depicting the Pardon of Assisi. In 1216, Jesus and the Virgin Mary appeared to Francesco in the Porziuncola. Jesus asked Francesco what he wanted for the salvation of souls. To this, Francesco replied that he would like to obtain a plenary indulgence for all who entered the Porziuncola. Jesus granted him this wish but stipulated he should first present his request to the Pope. That same year Francesco obtained approval from Pope Honorius III. This became known as the Great Pardon of Assisi.
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The Cappella del Transito
In this former infirmary cell, on October 3rd, 1226, Francesco drew his last breath while reciting Psalm 141 (O LORD, I call to you; come quickly to me). Lo Spagna painted the frescoes in the interior. They depict the earliest followers of San Francesco.
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The Rose Garden and the Rose Chapel
The Rose Garden is to the right of the basilica's apse. It is the last remains of the ancient wood in which Francesco and his friars lived. Legend has it that one night, Francesco, taken by strong doubts and remorse of sin, rolled naked in the bramble thorns in an attempt to overcome doubt and temptation. Upon contact with his body, the bramble bushes turned into dog roses without thorns. Since then, the rose garden has bloomed without thorns.
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From the rose garden, you can enter the Rose Chapel. Here Francesco rested and spent the rest of the night in prayer and penance. The chapel is decorated with a series of frescoes by several painters, among which the Umbrian Tiberio d'Assisi.
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Open: Mon - Sun 06:15 to 12:30 / 14:30 to 19:30
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
