Assisi: a complete guide through the birthplace of San Francesco
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The first time I visited Umbria was back in 2017, but the region had already made an impression on me a year earlier. It was winter then, and due to some unexpected disruptions, I found myself on a slow regional train from Rome to Florence. As I gazed out the window, the green hills of Umbria passed by. Every now and then, I caught a glimpse of a charming medieval village, each one seemingly untouched by time. The scene brought to mind the essay "A Chain of Italian Cities" by Henry James, published in his 1874 travel book "Italian Hours." In it, he wrote:
"But the winter atmosphere in these regions has often an extraordinary charm; it seems to smile with a tender sense of being sole heir to the duty of cheering man's heart. It gave such a charm to the broken bridge, the little walled town, and the trudging friar, that I turned away with an impatient vow that in some blessed springtime of the future I would take the journey again and pause to my heart's content at Narni, at Spoleto, at Assisi, at Perugia, at Cortona, at Arezzo. But we have generally to clip our vows a little when we come to fulfill them; and so it befell that when my blessed springtime arrived, I had to begin resignedly at Assisi."
Just as Henry James did, I promised myself I would return. And I did. The following year, I made my way back to Umbria and began my journey in Assisi.
View over Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco
The medieval hill town of Assisi is best known for being the birthplace of Saint Francis, also known as San Francesco in Italian. He was the founder of the Franciscan order and is one of Italy's two patron saints. That said, it means you cannot complete a trip to Assisi without following in the footsteps of millions of pilgrims and visiting some of the places connected to Saint Francis.
Now, don't worry. You don't need to be religious to enjoy Assisi. In addition to its beautifully decorated churches, the town offers Roman ruins, an old fortress, and a rich medieval atmosphere. Assisi also serves as a great starting point for hikes through Umbria's lush hills and visits to nearby towns. This mix of culture and landscape has even earned Assisi a spot on UNESCO's World Heritage list.
Around December the medieval streets of Assisi are lined with Christmas lights, and you'll find nativity scenes near every church. In fact, it was San Francesco who 'invented' the first nativity scene.
Since my first visit, I've returned to Assisi several times and in different seasons. One of my favorite times to go is in December. By then, most of the crowds have disappeared, and the wintry weather gives the place a quiet, almost magical atmosphere.
If you're considering a visit to Assisi, I'd be happy to guide you on how to get there and share the top things to do and see. You'll find everything you need in the guide below. Also, don't forget to check out my post about the history of Umbria. It might help you put some stories into perspective and make the most of your trip.
How to reach?
Before diving into everything Assisi has to offer, let me first tell you how to get there.
By car: The easiest way to get to Assisi is by car. Just keep in mind that most of the historic center is a ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone), so driving is not permitted everywhere. One of the closest (underground) parking spots is at Piazza Giovanni Paolo II (Google Maps). Another option is Piazza Porta Nuova (Google Maps). From there, it's about a 15 to 30-minute walk to the historic center.
By train: I usually take the train to Assisi. The train station (Google Maps) sits in the nearby town of Santa Maria degli Angeli, about 3 kilometers from the historic center. From there, you can catch a bus (more on that below) or walk along the 'Mattonata,' the brick path that leads up to Assisi. As you walk, you'll notice countless names engraved on the bricks.
Here's a little side story: after the 1997 earthquake seriously damaged Assisi, a fundraising campaign gave people a chance to "adopt" a brick and have their name engraved as part of the town's rebuilding efforts. Unfortunately, in 2000, the story took an unexpected turn. Investigators discovered that millions in donations had gone missing, and the person behind the project was arrested.
By bus: You can also take bus line C, which stops right in front of the train station. In under 10 minutes, it takes you to Piazza Unità d'Italia (Google Maps). From there, it's just a short walk into the historic center. A one-way ticket costs €1.30 if you buy it at the newsstand inside the station or €1.50 if you get it on the bus.
Assisi train station
#1 Basilica di San Francesco
With a few million visitors each year, the Basilica di San Francesco is undoubtedly the most famous sight in Assisi. As a result, it can become quite crowded. To avoid the mob as much as possible, I recommend making the basilica your first stop when visiting Assisi, ideally early in the morning. For enthusiasts: the basilica opens as early as 6 AM!
Unless you park your car at Piazza Porta Nuova, you'll probably enter Assisi through the Porta San Pietro (Google Maps). From there, it's just a 5-minute walk to basilica. But before heading straight to the entrance, take a moment to look at the arcades lining Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco (Google Maps). They once gave pilgrims a place to rest and hosted trade and other activities. The arcade on the left also has some openings that offer a great view of Assisi's surroundings.
Okay, now let's move on to the basilica itself. Notice anything unusual as you stand in front of it? The complex consists of two churches! The Basilica Inferiore (Lower Basilica) forms the base, while the Basilica Superiore (Upper Basilica) sits right on top. Below the Lower Basilica, there's a crypt that holds the remains of Saint Francis.
The Basilica di San Francesco on a chilly December morning, seen from the Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco.
Here, I'll cover the highlights of the complex. If you're curious to learn more, I recommend reading my separate post about the Basilica di San Francesco and the life of Francis.
As soon as you step into the Basilica Inferiore and walk through the nave, you'll see it's an art lover's paradise. Unfortunately, taking photos inside is not permitted. The custodians take this rule very seriously. However, I got lucky one quiet morning. After a friendly chat with one of the custodians, I got permission to take a few quick photos for you to enjoy.
On both sides of the nave, you'll find chapels with equally impressive frescoes. Some are even more stunning than the ones in the central nave. Let me highlight one of them: the Cappella della Maddalena. It's the third one on the right side of the nave. The frescoes in this chapel show several biblical scenes, including the Resurrection of Lazarus and the Supper in the House of the Pharisee. These paintings are probably by Giotto himself. Many regard him as a pioneer of the Renaissance due to his realistic portrayal of emotion and depth. His work, especially the frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padua, marked a major shift away from the flat, stylized look of Byzantine art.
The "Noli me tangere" fresco (left) in the Cappella della Maddalena depicts the risen Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene and telling her not to touch him. On the same wall, the fresco of the "Raising of Lazarus" (right), shows Christ bringing Lazarus back to life.
You can find more of Giotto's (and his workshop's) work on the right side of the transept. But look closely. Do you notice that some frescoes, such as the Majesty of Assisi (located next to the Crucifixion), stand out due to their distinct tone and technique? Cimabue painted those. As one of the great medieval painters from Florence, he played a significant role in shaping Italian art. Dante even mentioned Cimabue in his Divine Comedy, describing him as the artist surpassed only by Giotto.
You'll find these two frescoes on the left side of the transept. Both are attributed to Pietro Lorenzetti and his workshop. There's the "Hanging of Judas" (left), a scene that's rarely shown in art, and the "Deposition of the Cross" (right).
From the transept of the lower basilica, let's move on to the Basilica Superiore. Here, you can find the basilica's most famous artwork. It's a cycle of 28 frescoes that depict key moments from the life of Saint Francis. There's still some debate among art historians about who painted it. Many believe Giotto and his workshop were behind the work, but others aren't so sure. They point out that the style here in Assisi doesn't quite match Giotto's more famous frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua.
Regardless of who painted them, the frescoes are beautiful and full of intricate detail. I really recommend taking your time. Take a seat and absorb each scene one by one. Which one speaks to you the most?
The beautifully decorated nave of the Basilica Superiore.
From the transept of the lower basilica, let's move on to the Basilica Superiore. Here, you can find the basilica's most famous artwork. It's a cycle of 28 frescoes that depict key moments from the life of Saint Francis. There's still some debate among art historians about who painted it. Many believe Giotto and his workshop were behind the work, but others aren't so sure. They point out that the style here in Assisi doesn't quite match Giotto's more famous frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua.
Regardless of who painted them, the frescoes are beautiful and full of intricate detail. I really recommend taking your time. Take a seat and absorb each scene one by one. Which one speaks to you the most?
The cycle known as the Legend of San Francesco includes 28 frescoes that show important moments from Saint Francis's life. Two examples are the "Miracle of the Crucifix in the chapel of San Damiano" (left) and the "Renunciation of Worldly Goods" (right). In the second scene, you can see Francesco looking up at the hand of God as he declares that God alone is his true father.
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#2 Pinacoteca Comunale (Palazzo Vallemani)
If you're interested in exploring more medieval and Renaissance art, then this next place is where you should be. Once you leave the Basilica Superiore, follow Via San Francesco toward the historic center. In under 5 minutes, you'll arrive at Palazzo Vallemani (Google Maps).
This 17th-century palazzo was once home to the noble Giacobetti family, followed by the Vallemani. Today, it's home to the Pinacoteca Comunale, the Municipal Art Gallery of Assisi. The gallery holds an impressive collection of frescoes from the 13th to the 16th century. Many of the works once adorned public buildings, city gates, hospices, and religious fraternities. However, to protect Assisi's artistic legacy from further deterioration, the municipality gathered the works in the mid-1800s and placed them in the Pinacoteca for preservation. Let me highlight the two most important artworks.
Via San Francesco with the Pinacoteca Comunale (Palazzo Vallemani) on the right.
The most important piece in the collection is the Virgin and Child in Majesty by Giotto. You can find this fresco right at the start of the exhibition. It comes from Assisi's Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo (Google Maps), which once housed the 'Captain of the People,' a powerful medieval official who represented the bourgeoisie and workers in city assemblies.
Painters who worked at the Basilica di San Francesco were also asked to decorate communal residences. One example is the fresco "Virgin and Child in Majesty" from the rooms of the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. Though fragmentary, the painting shows exceptional spatial awareness and a preference for sculptural, natural forms, pointing to the style of Giotto.
Another highlight is the Madonna and Child in a landscape under an arch of Seraphim, which originally adorned the Porta San Giacomo (Google Maps). This old city gate is part of the wall that separates the historic center from Rocca Maggiore. You can recognize it by the cypress tree growing on top.
The Madonna and Child is the work of Andrea d'Assisi, also known as l'Ingegno (the Ingenious). He's said to have been a student of Perugino, studying alongside the young Raphael, and even assisted Perugino with work in the Sistine Chapel.
The Madonna and Child, attributed to Andrea d'Assisi
The Pinacoteca is relatively small, meaning you can see it in about an hour. Tickets are very affordable, costing just only €3. Alternatively, you can purchase a combo ticket for €10, which includes admission to the Roman Forum and Rocca Maggiore.
Sala di Tiberio d'Assisi. Most of the frescoes in this room come from the hand of Tiberio d'Assisi. Between 1486 and 1524, Tiberio was very active in Assisi and in numerous towns in the Umbrian valley.
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#3 Roman Forum & Archaeological Museum
Let's leave the Renaissance behind for a moment and go further back in time. As early as the 9th century BC, the area around modern-day Assisi was inhabited by the Umbrians, one of the oldest Italic peoples. They controlled the region for centuries until the Romans defeated them at the Battle of Sentinum in 295 BC.
After their victory, the Romans expanded control across the Umbrian territories and renamed local settlements. And so, one settlement on the slopes of Monte Subasio became Asisium. Under Roman rule, Asisium grew in size and importance, and around 90 to 80 BC, the Romans even granted Asisium the status of municipium. That meant that its citizens held (limited) Roman citizenship while maintaining local self-government, except in matters of justice and foreign policy.
The only Roman structure still mostly intact is the former temple that now serves as the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. I'll share more about this temple later in the post. Other traces of Assisi's Roman past are harder to spot, and some can only be seen by going underground.
If you know where to look, you can still find traces of Roman Asisium in modern-day Assisi. The Roman Forum is a perfect example. It's hidden underneath today's Piazza del Comune. To get there, again follow Via San Francesco toward the historic center. From the Pinacoteca, it's only a 10-minute walk.
The visit starts in the small Archaeological Museum, tucked away in the underground Romanesque crypt of the former Church of San Nicolò. I'll admit the collection is relatively modest, though maybe I'm just a bit spoiled by other museums. Still, it's worth a look. You'll find a handful of artifacts, including Roman inscriptions, capitals, and several funeral monuments recovered from necropolises around Assisi.
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From the museum, a corridor with a glass walkway takes you to the archaeological area of the forum. If you look down through the glass, you can already see the original flooring of the Roman Forum right beneath your feet.
About halfway down the corridor, you'll spot what looks like a U-shaped stage. That's all that remains of the tribunal, a stone monument where the local magistrates once sat. On each side of the tribunal, there's a staircase built into the wall. These stairs led up to the entrance of the Temple of Minerva, which today is the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
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To the right of the tribunal, a passage leads to a large rectangular structure that dates back to the first half of the 1st century AD. The structure formed the base of a four-columned tabernacle or tetrastyle dedicated to Castor and Pollux. While the statues and other decorations that adorned the temple are long gone, one interesting detail remains. Around the back of the ruins, an inscription still shows the names of the people who funded its construction.
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Once you're back at the tribunal, keep walking down the same corridor you passed earlier. It leads to the eastern section of the Roman Forum, where you'll find the remains of several tabernae. These small rooms once served as shops. The visit ends in the adjacent room, where statues from the Roman period are on display.
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#4 Temple of Minerva
After your visit to the Roman Forum, I recommend heading to Piazza del Comune (Google Maps). It's just a couple of steps away and built right on top of the ancient forum. Just as in Roman times, the place remains the beating heart of Assisi, full of life and charm.
The medieval buildings that frame the square make Piazza del Comune one of the best-preserved medieval squares in all of Italy. Yet, if you take a moment to look around, one building stands out with its distinctly different style: the former Temple of Minerva. You've already seen its base when visiting the Roman Forum, and from Piazza del Comune, you can admire its original facade.
The Temple of Minerva dates back to the late 1st century BC and had all the typical features of a Roman temple. Still visible today, are the Corinthian columns that form the portico and support the triangular pediment above.
Romans built the temple in the 1st century BC and dedicated it to the goddess Minerva, or at least that's what scholars believed after they found a female statue. However, a more recent discovery changed that view. They found a plaque dedicated to Hercules, which suggests the temple probably honored him instead.
After Constantine made Christianity Rome's official religion, the role of the pagan temple began to change. Like many former temples, it was first converted into a Christian church. By the middle of the Middle Ages, the building had taken on a very different purpose, serving as a tribunal with an attached jail. This situation continued until 1539 when Pope Paul III ordered its restoration as a religious site dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Since then, the structure has been known as the Santa Maria sopra Minerva, meaning "Saint Mary above Minerva."
Close-up of the Corinthian columns
Before stepping inside, try to imagine standing in the old Roman Forum. Right in front of you, the Temple of Minerva rises on a five-meter-high podium, free from the medieval buildings that now surround it. Back then, it must have truly dominated the forum of Asisium!
The temple's beauty has impressed many visitors, including famous artists. For example, Giotto painted a scene set right in front of the Temple of Minerva as part of his Legend of San Francesco frescoes in the Basilica Superiore. The architect Palladio also drew inspiration from the temple and praised it as one of the best examples of ancient architecture.
Reproduction of the Temple of Minerva on one of the frescoes in the Basilica Superiore
As soon as you step into the church, the Roman past feels far away. In the 16th century, builders redesigned the interior for Christian worship. They removed the temple's cella (the inner chamber of a Roman temple) and transformed the space into a Baroque style. Still, if you walk up to the altar at the back, you'll notice some original features. Here, the Roman flooring is still in place, and you can even see the drains in the floor that once carried away the blood from sacrifices. Behind the statues, a few sections of the temple's original walls are also still visible.
Statue of Santa Maria above the altar (left), and drain in the original Roman floor where blood sacrifices took place (right)
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#5 Casa Natale di San Francesco
Now let's skip forward in time and head to the place where San Francesco was born. It's a must-see for anyone on a Saint Francis pilgrimage.
To get there, from Piazza del Comune, walk down the Corso Giuseppe Mazzini. After about 100 meters, you'll come across a passageway (on your left) with a colorful bas relief above the entrance. At the end of the passage is the Oratory of San Francesco Piccolino (Google Maps).
The inscription above the oratorio's doorway reads: "Hoc oratorium fuit bovis et asini stabilium in quo natis est sanctus Franciscus mundi speculum." Meaning: this oratory was the stable of an ox and a donkey in which San Francesco, mirror of the world, was born.
Tradition has it that this was a stable where Francesco's mother, Pica de Bourlemont, gave birth to her son. See the resemblance to Mary, Jesus' mother, who also gave birth to her son in an animal shelter? Fiction or not, point of the story is that Francesco's life was modeled on that of Jesus.
Not far from the Oratory of San Francesco Piccolino, is the Chiesa Nuova. The church is built where the house and workshop of Pietro di Bernardone, Francesco's father, once stood. The young Francesco lived here with his family until he was 20 years old and took part in a military expedition against Perugia (also check my post about the life of San Francesco).
In front of the Chiesa Nuova is an intimate square with a bronze statue of Francesco's parents. If you look closely, you can see that Francesco's mother has a broken iron chain in her hands. It is said that to have the San Damiano Church repaired, Francesco sold some cloth from his father's workshop. When his father found out, he was furious and chained Francesco in a storage room. By doing so, Bernadone tried to force Francesco back into the silk merchant procession and to take over his father's thriving business. However, Francesco's mother helped him escape by breaking the chains, hence the broken chains on the statue.
The inscription above the entrance to the church also refers to this story. It reads: "The house of Francesco's parents has become a temple of God, while the prison where he was locked up by his father is still visible."
Unfortunately, it's not allowed to take photos inside the church, but once inside, you'll notice that on your left, there is a reconstruction of the storage room where Francesco was chained for weeks. To the left of the altar, a door leads you to an area that reveals more of the old house and workshop.
Open: Mon - Sun 08:00 to 12:30 / 14:30 to 19:15
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#6 San Damiano
The next stop played a very important part in the spiritual life of San Francesco. It is the convent and church of San Damiano, located about 2 km from the Chiesa Nuova.
At age 20, Francesco participated in a military expedition against Perugia. But due to his lack of combat experience, enemy soldiers quickly captured him. When Francesco was released, he returned to Assisi as a different man. Instead of working, he spent more and more time in quiet churches around Assisi. One day Francesco was praying in front of an old crucifix in the dilapidated field chapel of San Damiano. Suddenly he heard the voice of the Lord: "Francesco, Francesco, go and repair My house, which, as you can see, is falling into ruins." This Miracle of the Crucifix is one of the scenes painted by Giotto on the wall of the Upper Basilica of San Francesco.
Now Francesco had a mission. As I mentioned earlier, this miraculous event led to Francesco selling cloth from his father's store to raise money for the church's restoration. Later Francesco came to realize that God's message to him was to restore the entire Catholic Church rather than literally repair one stone structure.
In 1212 the convent of San Damiano became the home of Santa Chiara of Assisi and her followers. I'll tell you more about Santa Chiara at our next stop.
Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 12:00 / 14:00 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#7 Basilica di Santa Chiara
On your way back to the historic center, you'll come across the Basilica di Santa Chiara. The church was built after the death of Chiara and is another important place of worship in Assisi.
But who was Chiara? In 1212, San Francesco preached at the Cathedral of San Rufino. Among his audience was a young woman named Chiara Offreduccio (better known as Clara, Clare, or Santa Chiara). Influenced by Francesco's preaching, she too longed for a life of prayer and devotion to God.
Chiara's parents, however, had other plans and wanted her to get married. Chiara saw no other way than to escape from her father's home, and she proceeded to the Porziuncola, a tiny chapel just outside Assisi. Here she asked Francesco to help her live in a manner worthy of the Gospel. Francesco then cut her hair and exchanged her rich gown for a plain robe and veil. After that, he took Chiara to a convent of Benedictine nuns. Not much later, her sister Agnes came to join her. Their father was outraged and attempted to force the girls to return home, but without success.
Eventually, Chiara and her sister moved to a small accommodation next to the church of San Damiano. Other women joined them, and they became known as the 'Poor Clares.' The women lived a simple life according to a rule Francesco gave them as a Second Order.
Chiara died at San Damiano in 1253 and was canonized in 1255 by Pope Alexander IV. The construction of the Basilica di Santa Chiara began a year after Chiara's canonization.
The positioning of the basilica does not seem haphazard. It almost faces the Basilica di San Francesco on the other side of Assisi. And when we look at the facade, it also resembles the Basilica Superiore. It is divided into three levels, each with alternating bands of pink and white stone. Except for the Gothic rose window, there is little other decoration. The left side of the basilica is characterized by three large buttresses that reinforce the structure. These were added at the end of the 14th century.
The church's interior is somewhat simple, but take a look inside the right transept at the back of the basilica. Unfortunately, taking pictures inside the church is not allowed, but here you'll find a gorgeous fresco cycle with scenes from the life of Chiara. The anonymous Master of Santa Chiara painted the cycle in the late 13th century.
On the right side of the nave, you'll also find a chapel. It is the former chapel of San Giorgio. Hanging above the altar is a 12th-century cross. It is the crucifix - from the small church of San Damiano - in front of which Francesco prayed and felt that God had ghosts to him.
Also, make sure to go down the stairs into the crypt to see the tomb of Santa Chiara.
Open: Mon - Sun 06:30 to 12:00 / 14:00 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#8 Cattedrale di San Rufino
The next church that I want to tell you about is the Cattedrale di San Rufino. For the record: a cathedral is a church that contains the bishop's throne, thus serving as the central church of a diocese. It gives a cathedral a greater status than a basilica. Most people assume the Basilica di San Francesco is the city's cathedral. However, at the time of Francesco's birth, the San Rufino had already served as Assisi's cathedral for almost 150 years.
The cathedral is dedicated to San Rufino, the first Christian Bishop and patron saint of Assisi. His body is buried under the cathedral's high altar, but I'll come to that later.
The cathedral has been important in the history of the Franciscan order. Here both Francesco and Chiara were brought to be baptized. It was also here that Chiara heard Francisco preach. As you now know, this event had a profound influence on her life.
Stand in the piazza for a few minutes before entering and have a look at the facade. It's a typical example of the Umbrian-Romanesque style.
The lower section has three beautifully decorated portals. Above the (main) entrance, you see a bas-relief of Christ sitting on a throne between sun and moon. I'm sure not about the symbolic meaning, but I think it signifies either Jesus as the light of the world, or the resolving of all dualities in Christ. Anyway, next to Christ, there are two other figures. They are San Rufino and Virgin Mary breastfeeding the Child.
In the middle section of the facade is a large rose window. It is supported by three telamons (figures of men (often Atlas) used as a pillar for support) standing on animals. Around the window, four other symbols can be seen as well. They represent the four evangelists: Matthew (angel), Mark (lion), John (eagle), and Luke (ox).
As you enter the church, go to the far right-hand corner. Here you can still see the font where both Francesco and Chiara were baptized. To be honest, compared to the other churches in Assisi, to me the rest of the interior of the San Rufino felt like an anti-climax.
If you want, you can visit the cathedral's crypt (for a modest entrance fee). Here you'll find a pagan Roman sarcophagus from the 3rd century. The bas-relief on the sarcophagus depicts the myth of the shepherd Endymion, who caught the eye of Selene, goddess of the moon. Selene was so impressed she asked Zeus to grant Endymion eternal youth to match hers. However, Selene was so into Endymion's beautiful sleeping face that she had Zeus keep him in eternal sleep. The sleep of Endymion became a popular funerary motif in Roman art. Even though it was a pagan sarcophagus, tradition has it that it was used as the final resting place of San Rufino.
The crypt also gives access to the Diocesan Museum. This museum was founded in 1941 to preserve and display precious works of art from the cathedral. The collection goes back all the way to the Roman era.
Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 13:00 / 15:00 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free, entrance to the museum is €3,50
#9 Rocca Maggiore
While exploring the historic center of Assisi, you may have noticed the imposing castle high above the town. It's the Rocca Maggiore, a fortress that dominated the citadel of Assisi for more than 800 years.
Today the Rocca mainly offers breathtaking views over Assisi's most famous landmarks. You can see the Cattedrale di San Rufino, the Basilica di Santa Chiara, and the Basilica di San Francesco. In the distance you can also see a smaller fortress, the Rocca Minore.
You'll need to walk your way up to the Rocca Maggiore. The best time to do so is just before sunset. Around this time of day, temperatures are pleasant, and the view will be even more magical. BUT! Please note that the Rocca is temporarily closed (September 2022), and it's unclear when the restoration works will be finished. Don't be disappointed though, because from up the hill you'll still have fantastic views!
I'll tell you some more about the Rocca anyway. The first historical mention of the castle dates back to 1173. Back then, the Archbishop of Mainz sacked Assisi on behalf of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Later, in 1198, a local uprising tower down the stronghold. The ruins of the fortress remained neglected until 1362 when the Spanish cardinal Egidio Albornoz decided to rebuild it.
Those who have also visited Spoleto and/or Orvieto may recognize the name of the cardinal. Albornoz had been sent to Umbria by Pope Innocent VI to oversee the construction of a series of fortresses. The fortresses –including the ones in Assisi, Spoleto, and Orvieto– had to re-affirm the papal authority in Central Italy.
Over time the fortress was enlarged several times, but after the 16th century, it lost its primary defensive function. The Rocca Maggiore became a residence of the castellans and later even a prison and a warehouse!
Inside the Rocca, you'll find lots of information about life in the Middle Ages, and throughout the complex there are figures in medieval clothes, musical instruments, and weapons. The exhibition is perfect when you visit the fortress with kids. Otherwise, just go straight up to the top of the tower and enjoy the views!
Open: Temporarily closed
Entry fees: Entrance to the fortress is either €6,- or €9,- (combined ticket)
#10 Eremo delle Carceri
If you're interested in the life of San Francesco or want to enjoy Umbria's nature, I recommend a hike to the Eremo delle Carceri (click the link for the route).
The Eremo delle Carceri is a hermitage located about 5 kilometers from the historic center of Assisi. Back in the time of Francesco, the rocky area only had some caves used as 'cells' for individual friars and a small central oratory. Here Francesco and his followers retreated to meditate and pray in solitude and silence. Later, in the 15th century, a monastery was added to the site.
On the side of the oratory, a narrow passage leads down to the Grotto di San Francesco. This is the cave where the Saint is said to have isolated himself to pray and meditate.
When you exit the cave, you'll see a path that leads into the forest. A walk through the forest takes you past the caves and the chapels where other companions of Francesco once retreated.
You can also see a centuries-old holm oak at the beginning of the forest. According to legend, this is the tree on which the birds have gathered to be blessed by San Francesco. Inside the Basilica di San Francesco you might have seen the famous fresco by Giotto that portrays this scene.
Open: Mon - Sat 06:30 to 18:00, Sun 07:15 to 18:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the hermitage is free
#11 Baci di Assisi
You cannot leave Assisi without having tried some Baci di Assisi (Kisses of Assisi). These delicious pastries made of almonds are usually eaten by dipping them in coffee, or as a kind of dessert along with some wine.
Most Italian kiss-pastries are composed of two half spheres attached to each other by a cream. But in Assisi they don't. The classic Baci di Assisi are more like soft pastries made of almond paste and covered with sliced almonds. Some shops also sell variations like Baci with pistachio grains, chocolate, or a custard heart.
Italian pastries often have their roots in local history. The different regions, provinces, and municipalities have always been a precious source of recipes and anecdotes. The Baci di Assisi are no exception. Some say its origin is closely linked to the famous story about San Francesco and a leper.
One day, while riding his horse near Assisi, Francesco ran into a man suffering from leprosy. The mere sight of a leper had always filled him with horror and disgust. So, like most people, Francesco kept a close distance from the leper. However, when he had barely past the man, something prompted him to get off his horse. Francesco walked towards the leper, hugged him, and kissed him on the cheek. After Francesco mounted his horse again, he turned to greet the leper, but the man had disappeared. It then dawned on him that it was Jesus whom he had just kissed.
Francesco later mentioned the event in his will. He wrote:
"While I was in sin, it seemed very bitter to me to see lepers. And the Lord Himself led me among them and I had mercy upon them. And when I left them, that which seemed bitter to me was changed into sweetness of soul and body; and afterward I lingered a little and left the world."
Perhaps the sliced almonds on the Baci di Assisi are supposed to make the pastry appear bitter (almonds can taste bitter), but once you take a bite, you'll taste the pastry's sweetness.
Whether this explanation is true or not, you should definitely try some Baci! They also make the perfect gift for friends or family. My favorite place to buy them is Terra Umbra Antica (Google Maps), a small shop not far from the train station.
#12 Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli
I'd like to end this Assisi guide with one last church. The Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Inside this church, you'll find both the primitive Porziuncola chapel and the Cappella del Transito.
The Porziuncola
Being located directly under the dome of the basilica, the Porziuncola immediately grabs your attention. The chapel dates back to the 10th or 11th century and was given to San Francesco by the Benedictines. After Francesco restored the Porziuncola chapel, he made it his residence and founded the Franciscan Order there. This makes the Porziuncola one of the most important Franciscan places.
The church is decorated with frescoes from different periods. Above the entrance is a fresco by Johann Friedrich Overbeck depicting the Pardon of Assisi. In 1216, Jesus and the Virgin Mary appeared to Francesco in the Porziuncola. Jesus asked Francesco what he wanted for the salvation of souls. To this, Francesco replied that he would like to obtain a plenary indulgence for all who entered the Porziuncola. Jesus granted him this wish but stipulated he should first present his request to the Pope. That same year Francesco obtained approval from Pope Honorius III. This became known as the Great Pardon of Assisi.
The Cappella del Transito
In this former infirmary cell, on October 3rd, 1226, Francesco drew his last breath while reciting Psalm 141 (O LORD, I call to you; come quickly to me). Lo Spagna painted the frescoes in the interior. They depict the earliest followers of San Francesco.
The Rose Garden and the Rose Chapel
The Rose Garden is to the right of the basilica's apse. It is the last remains of the ancient wood in which Francesco and his friars lived. Legend has it that one night, Francesco, taken by strong doubts and remorse of sin, rolled naked in the bramble thorns in an attempt to overcome doubt and temptation. Upon contact with his body, the bramble bushes turned into dog roses without thorns. Since then, the rose garden has bloomed without thorns.
From the rose garden, you can enter the Rose Chapel. Here Francesco rested and spent the rest of the night in prayer and penance. The chapel is decorated with a series of frescoes by several painters, among which the Umbrian Tiberio d'Assisi.
Open: Mon - Sun 06:15 to 12:30 / 14:30 to 19:30
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
