Terni: city of love and steel
Terni is the second-largest city in Umbria and is located in the region's south. Unlike many of Umbria's medieval towns, Terni's layout and architecture are mainly modern. This is the result of the reconstruction in the 1950s following the heavy bombing the city suffered in World War II.
To understand why Terni was bombed, we have to go back in time. During the 19th century, Terni was one of the first cities in Italy to take part in the industrial revolution. Many steel mills were constructed, and the city's economy grew significantly. However, the presence of important industries made Terni a target for the Allied bombardments in World War II. This resulted in 57 airstrikes that demolished or damaged over 40% of the buildings.
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Today, Terni remains an important industrial city. This has earned Terni the nickname 'City of Steel.' I immediately noticed the city's industrial character as soon as I walked out of the train station for the first time. A gigantic monumental steel press has been placed right in front of the station's entrance.
I certainly wasn't the first to notice the city's industrial character. Have you seen the movie La Vita è Bella (Life is Beautiful)? The well-known Italian actor and film producer Roberto Benigni was looking for an ominous setting for his film when he came upon the old Papigno factory in Terni. It was the perfect location to film the tragic concentration camp scenes. So, together with his wife, he transformed the old factory into a state-of-the-art studio facility.
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But enough about steel and factories. There is much more Terni has to offer. Despite the bombings, much of the historic architecture has been preserved, including the Basilica di San Valentino. He is the patron saint of lovers and is said to have been born in Terni. This has given Terni a second nickname: the 'City of Lovers.' I'll tell you more about this later on.
Below you'll find a mini-guide that shows you the best places to visit in Terni. It is based on a recent (April 2022) trip of mine. I'm looking forward to hearing which one is your favorite!
Also, don't forget to read my post about the history of Umbria. It might help you put some stories in perspective and get the most out of your trip.
#1 Duomo di Terni
First off, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, better known as the Duomi di Terni. The cathedral can be found on Piazza Duomo and is easily recognized by the wide colonnade in front of the main entrance.
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The current cathedral is the result of many rebuildings and renovations. One of the earliest cathedrals was built by San Anastasius, the bishop of Terni from 606 to 653. Recent excavations in front of the entrance revealed an oratory's apse of this 7th-century cathedral. The apse remains can be seen through the glass floor in the portico. Inside the apse, several graves were found. It is believed that San Anastasius was buried here at the time.
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In the 9th century, a larger cathedral was built. The earlier church was turned into the crypt of the new structure. However, the new cathedral seems to have been destroyed in 1174. Rebuilding took place in the 12th century, and many more adjustments were made in the centuries that followed. The current duomo results from the last major renovation in the 17th or 18th century.
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As I mentioned earlier, the cathedral can be recognized by the wide colonnade in front of the main entrance. Above this portico are statues of San Valentino and seven other bishops. But the detail that struck me the most was the footprint to the left of the central entrance. There are several theories about the meaning of this imprint. One is that it indicates the heel size that women were allowed to wear.
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At the beginning of the 2000s, the duomo's interior underwent significant improvements. As a result, inside, very little remains of the old furnishings. All I could find were the remains of a 15th-century fresco of Sant' Antonio Abate on the counter-facade to the right of the entrance.
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Open: Mon - Sun 08:00 to 12:00 / 165:30 to 19:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the duomo is free
#2 Fausto Amphitheater
Next to the duomo, Terni's main Roman archaeological monument can be found. I'm talking about the remains of the Fausto Amphitheater (Google Maps).
The structure was built in the Julius-Claudian period under Emperor Tiberius (AD 14 until 37). This means that the Fausto Amphitheater is older than the Colosseum in Rome. However, with approximately 10,000 seats, the Fausto Amphitheater was a lot smaller than the Colosseum (50,000 seats).
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After the fall of the Roman Empire, the amphitheater fell into disrepair. For a long time, it was used as a quarry for building materials. Today, only a small part of the structure remains. Most striking about the remains are the two-tone 'opus reticulatum' walls. Opus reticulatum is an ancient Roman technique of facing concrete walls with diamond-shaped bricks to achieve a net-like ornamental surface pattern. With a facade like this, the building must have looked extremely lively in the past.
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It seems to me that the municipality is neglecting the monument and not using its full potential. The amphitheater is only accessible during summer when the theater is turned into an open-air cinema. Make sure to grab this opportunity if you happen to be in Terni during (late spring and) the summer.
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#3 Chiesa di San Salvatore
Not far from the duomo and the amphitheater you will find the Chiesa di San Salvatore, the oldest church in Terni.
Excavations have shown that the church was built on the remains of a Roman Domus and large swimming pool, both dating back to the first century AD.
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What characterizes the San Salvatore church is its floor plan. It consists of two different intersecting volumes. The oldest part, dating back to the 5th century, is the circular presbytery. A circular oculus can be seen at the top of the presbytery's dome. It reminded me a little of the Pantheon in Rome.
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The circular presbytery is crossed by a double-span rectangular nave, dating back to the 12th century. In the 16th century, a side chapel was built to the left of the nave. This chapel is known as the Manassei di Collestatte. A second chapel, the Filera Chapel, was added one century later.
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In both chapels, you will find high-quality frescoes or Sienese influence. They date from the first half of the 12th century. The Umbrian school fresco in the apse is more recent (16th century) and depicts the Crucifixion.
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Open: Unfortunately, I couldn't find the opening hours
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#4 Da Panzerotto Fast-fudde Ternano
As soon as you start to get hungry, I can definitely recommend going to Da Panzerotto Fast-fudde Ternano (Google Maps).
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In my opinion, this small but welcoming place sells the tastiest sandwiches from Terni. Their sandwiches are like little fried calzone, and the fillings are all local specialties. The menu hanging above the counter contains many different sandwiches. Not sure which one to choose? The staff is extremely friendly and happy to give you advice. So far, the one with coratella is my absolute favorite.
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#5 Basilico di San Valentino
Terni is the birthplace of San Valentino, the patron saint of lovers. However, most will know him as the saint to whom we owe Valentine's Day. But is this really so?
I was surprised after finding out that the remains of San Valentino are kept in Terni. Why? Well, because I remembered seeing the skull of San Valentino in Rome's Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin. How could this be?
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Apparently, there are many legends about San Valentino. One of the stories is about Valentino from Rome. He is said to have been a priest during the reign of Emperor Claudius II. The emperor was in constant need of young men for his army. He therefore decided to outlaw marriage between young couples because unwed young men would make better soldiers. Valentino ignored this and kept marrying people in secret. But eventually, he was caught and sentenced to death.
Another story is the one about Valentino the Bishop of Terni. He was summoned to Rome to cure the child of a prominent Roman official. It is said that during his stay, the Roman official's whole family converted to Christianity. Valentino was therefore captured and executed.
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Both men are said to have been killed on February 14, around AD 270. Could they be one and the same person? We will probably never find out. To honor the Christian martyr(s), Pope Gelasius I established the Feast of San Valentino on February 14.
For decades it was just one of many feast days dedicated to saints. However, in the 5th century, the Catholic Church struggled with the Roman Lupercalia. The Lupercalia was a violent and sexual celebration intended to ward off evil spirits and prevent infertility. It was held annually between February 13 and 15. The church disapproved of the celebration and replaced the old Pagan festival with the feast dedicated to San Valentino. From that moment on, the day revolved around love instead of lust. This is how Valentine's Day was born.
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But back to Terni. On the outskirts of the city is the Basilico di San Valentino. It is a relatively new church, built in the 17th century. The church's facade has a Baroque style, cream-colored walls, and a series of white columns.
The main attraction of the church is the funerary monument of San Valentino. His remains are encased in a gold death mask and kept in a glass case underneath the altar.
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Open: Mon - Sun 7:30 to 12:00 / 15:30 to 19:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#6 Marmore Falls
A trip to Terni is not complete without visiting the Cascata delle Marmore, or Marmore Falls. With a total height of 165 meters, the Cascata delle Marmore is the highest man-made waterfall in Europe. It is even the second-highest in the world! Watching the water plunge over green cliffs into the valley below is truly a spectacular sight. The waterfall is surrounded by trees and greenery with several hiking trails. It makes the Marmore Falls one of the most popular attractions in Umbria.
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Much of the water in the canals above the falls is diverted to a hydroelectric power plant. This means the flow in the falls themselves is heavily reduced. The waterfall is 'turned on' about twice a day. Once the gates are open, the peaceful stream of water turns into a speeding flow of 15 cubic meters per second!
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In no time, you will see an immense wave of water crashing down via three stone drops. While roaring down, the water creates a fine mist that rises above the trees. If you ask me, this is the best time to visit the falls.
Also check out my separate post about the Marmore Falls to learn more about its history and when to visit.
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Open: Differs per month, check the website for the latest info (link)
Entry fees: Entrance to the Marmore Falls is €10,-
#7 Parco Fluviale del Nera
The Cascata delle Marmore attracts thousands of visitors every year. But did you know the falls are part of an even larger park? The Parco Fluviale del Nera, or Nera River Park. It stretches along 20 kilometers of the Nera. Along the river, inside the park, you will find several picturesque towns such as Ferentillo, Arrone, and Montefranco. They fit perfectly into the picturesque landscape.
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If you have time, I recommend combining a visit to the Marmore Falls with a walk or bike ride through the Nera River Park. Do you want to make your visit more adventurous? The park also offers many opportunities for adventurous outdoor activities, such as rafting, free-climbing, and cave exploring.
Read my post about the Parco Fluviale del Nera to find out more.
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