Basilica di San Francesco: masterpiece of human creative genius
| Last updated: June 2025 |
Set along the slopes of Monte Subasio in Umbria, the medieval town of Assisi catches your eye from miles away. One building in particular stands out: the Basilica di San Francesco. Sitting at the edge of the historic center, it's not only Assisi's most recognizable spot, it's also the most visited, drawing millions of people each year.
But this isn't just any church. The basilica is actually composed of two churches stacked on top of each other, with a crypt located below where Saint Francis is buried. Inside, you'll find walls adorned with incredible art by renowned artists such as Giotto and Cimabue. Among the works of art are scenes of Christ's childhood and stories from the life of Saint Francis himself. The place is literally packed with history and beauty!
But before heading inside and exploring the basilica, let me introduce the man behind it. Who was Francis of Assisi (or San Francesco d'Assisi in Italian)?
Assisi stretches across the slopes of Mount Subasio, and one of the first things you'll notice is the Basilica di San Francesco standing out on the left.
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Basilica di San Francesco |
Life of San Francesco
Francesco was born in 1181 or 1182 to a silk merchant and a French noblewoman. Thanks to his father's thriving business, he grew up enjoying the comforts of a wealthy life. Everyone naturally assumed Francesco would one day take over the family trade, but he imagined a different future. He dreamed of becoming a knight.
Battle seemed like the best way to earn the glory and prestige he craved. So, in 1202, the young Francesco joined a military expedition against Perugia. But with little combat experience, he was quickly captured by enemy soldiers.
While held captive, Francesco began to reflect on his life. A year later, when he was finally released, he returned to Assisi as a changed man. Rather than focusing on work, he spent more and more time in the quiet churches around the town. One day, as he prayed before an old crucifix in the dilapidated chapel of San Damiano, he heard a clear voice calling him. It was the Lord, saying: "Francesco, Francesco, go and repair My house, which, as you can see, is falling into ruins."
Tucked away in one of Assisi's medieval streets is the Oratory of San Francesco Piccolino (top). According to tradition, this tiny place was once a stable, where Francesco's mother gave birth to him. It's hard not to think of Mary, who gave birth to Jesus in a similar setting. Just around the corner is the Chiesa Nuova (bottom left), built on the spot where Francesco's father once had his house and workshop. In front of the church, you'll find a bronze statue of Francesco's parents (bottom right).
Francesco now felt a new sense of purpose. He had a mission. But to rebuild the chapel of San Damiano, he needed money. So he took some cloth from his father's store and sold it. When his father found out, he was furious and dragged him before the local bishop. The bishop told Francesco to return the money. What happened next shocked everyone. Francesco took off all his clothes, handed everything back to his father, and declared that from now on, he recognized only one father: God.
From that moment on, Francesco dedicated himself to living according to the teachings of the Gospel. He chose a life of poverty, following the example of Christ. It was a radical choice at a time when the Church was known more for its wealth than its humility.
In the years that followed, Francesco restored several abandoned chapels in the countryside around Assisi. One of these was the Porziuncola, a small chapel just outside the town. It soon became the home of Francesco and his first followers. Today, you can still visit the Porziuncola. It now stands inside the grand Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, built to protect and honor the humble chapel where it all began.
Saint Francis of Assisi is one of Italy's two patron saints today. It's no surprise that you'll find references to him all over the country. This statue in Monterosso al Mare (Cinque Terre) shows Francesco alongside the Wolf of Gubbio. I'll share more about that story in my post about Gubbio.
I won't go into too much detail about the rest of Francesco's life except to say that his influence continued to grow. Over time, he came to understand that God's message wasn't just about fixing the crumbling chapel at San Damiano but about renewing the entire Catholic Church. He introduced a new kind of faith that spoke to ordinary people in a way they could truly understand. He even preached to animals, seeing all of creation as part of God's family.
Because Francesco loved animals and nature so profoundly, he later became the patron saint of ecology. That's also why today, on his feast day (October 4), the day after he died, we celebrate World Animal Day.
Because Francesco cared for the poor, his simple way of living, and his deep love for nature, he was also a big inspiration to Cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio. So when Bergoglio became Pope in 2013, he chose the name Francis to honor the saint and to show what kind of Church he hoped to lead. Pope Francis wanted a Church that's humble, compassionate, and also close to the people who need it most.
Bergoglio chose the name Francis (or Francesco in Italian) in honor of San Francesco d'Assisi. It was a name never used by a Pope before and showed his commitment to humility, peace, and care for the poor. Pope Francis passed away on Easter Monday in 2025. For his final resting place, he asked for something simple: a modest tomb in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome.
Basilica di San Francesco
Francesco died on October 3, 1226, and less than two years later, Pope Gregory IX canonized him as a saint. The very next day, the Pope personally laid the foundation stone for the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi. This close timing wasn't a coincidence. Gregory IX aimed to create not only a shrine for the newly canonized saint but also a powerful symbol of the Church's recognition of Francis's spiritual legacy. Remarkably, the chosen site had once served as a place of executions and the burial of criminals. An unlikely location for a grand basilica! But it was precisely where Francesco had wished to be buried. And so he was.
Over time, artists such as Giotto and Cimabue adorned the basilica with spectacular frescoes, making it one of the most important destinations for both pilgrims and art lovers in medieval and modern Europe. UNESCO even calls the Basilica di San Francesco a masterpiece of human creative genius and a key landmark in the history of art, both in Europe and around the world. It's a standout example of architecture that has played a significant role in shaping art and design. That's why UNESCO added the basilica to its World Heritage List in 2000.
The Basilica di San Francesco on a chilly December morning, seen from the Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco.
Now, let's explore the basilica itself. If you stand on Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco (Google Maps), you'll notice that it's comprised of two churches. The Basilica Inferiore (Lower Basilica) forms the foundation, and the Basilica Superiore (Upper Basilica) sits right above it. Below the Lower Basilica, a crypt holds the remains of Saint Francis.
Basilica Inferiore
The Basilica Inferiore is the best place to begin your visit to the whole complex. You can enter it from Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco. Please ensure you dress appropriately, and note that taking photos inside is not permitted. The custodians take this rule very seriously. I got lucky one quiet morning. After a friendly chat with one of the custodians, I was allowed to take a few quick photos before the crowds arrived.
After walking through the impressive doorway and passing the information office, turn left. You'll step into the basilica's single nave, divided into five sections. On the walls, you find a series of frescoes. The five on the left show scenes from the life of Saint Francis, while the five on the right tell the story of Jesus. Since the artist's name is unknown, the work is often attributed to the anonymous Maestro di San Francesco.
The high altar of the Basilica Inferiore.
On both sides of the nave, you'll find chapels with equally impressive frescoes. Some are even more stunning than the ones in the central nave. Let me highlight two of them.
I'll start with the first chapel on the left: the Cappella di San Martino. It's decorated with ten frescoes that tell the story of San Martino, a Roman soldier who later became the third Bishop of Tours in France. One of the most famous scenes shows him cutting his cloak in half to share it with a beggar. This simple act of kindness deeply inspired Saint Francis. The frescoes were likely painted by Simone Martini, a student of the well-known Giotto.
This fresco, likely painted by Simone Martini, shows San Martino cutting his cloak in half to share it with a beggar.
The other chapel I would like to highlight is the third one on the right side of the nave: the Cappella della Maddalena. Its frescoes show several biblical scenes, including the Resurrection of Lazarus and the Supper in the House of the Pharisee. These paintings are probably by Giotto himself. He's often regarded as a pioneer of the Renaissance due to his realistic portrayal of emotion and depth. His work, especially the frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padua, marked a major shift away from the flat, stylized look of Byzantine art.
The "Noli me tangere" fresco (top left) depicts the risen Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene and telling her not to touch him. On the same wall, the fresco of "The Raising of Lazarus" (top right), shows Christ bringing Lazarus back to life. The opposite wall of the chapel contains a fresco of "The Supper in the house of the Pharisee" (bottom). All of these frescoes are attributed to Giotto and his workshop.
Let's head into the transept of the Basilica Inferiore. Here, on the right side, the frescoes reminded me even more of the Cappella degli Scrovegni than those in the Cappella della Maddalena. Scenes like the Flight to Egypt and the Massacre of the Innocents have that same intensity and storytelling style. It felt obvious to me that Giotto painted them, or at least someone from his inner circle.
The fresco "Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary" (top) shows Mary visiting her relative Elizabeth after learning she would become a mother through the Holy Spirit. Other frescoes on the right side of the transept include the "Massacre of the Innocents" (bottom left) and the "Crucifixion" (bottom right). All of these frescoes are attributed to Giotto and his workshop.
That said, not all the frescoes follow the same style. The Majesty of Assisi fresco (next to the Crucifixion), for example, stands out with its different tone and technique. Cimabue painted this one. As one of the great medieval painters from Florence, he played a significant role in shaping Italian art. Dante even mentioned Cimabue in his Divine Comedy, describing him as the artist surpassed only by Giotto.
Moving on to the left side of the transept. The frescoes here all show scenes from the life of Jesus. You'll see the Entry into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the Crucifixion, and the Deposition from the Cross. In one of the corners, you'll even find an unusual and rarely shown scene: the Hanging of Judas.
At first glance, the frescoes on this side might remind you of Giotto's style. But these works are actually by Pietro Lorenzetti and his workshop. Lorenzetti embraced Giotto's innovative approach to spatial depth and emotional realism. Yet, he stayed true to the Sienese tradition, which leaned more toward a more graceful, decorative, and colorful style. That's why, in Lorenzetti's work, you'll see the use of softer lines, more refined colors, and more complex architectural settings.
Detail of the "Flagellation before Pilate" (top). It shows Jesus tied to a column and whipped on Pilate's orders. This punishment was meant to calm the crowd and avoid condemning him to death, but in the end, it didn't work and Jesus was crucified. Stricken with guilt and despair, Judas, the disciple who had betrayed Jesus, took his own life. The "Hanging of Judas" (bottom left) is a scene that's rarely shown in art. After Jesus' death, his followers gently removed his body from the cross. You can see this in the "Deposition of the Cross" (bottom right). All of these frescoes are attributed to Pietro Lorenzetti and his workshop.
Crypt
In the middle of the Basilica Inferiore, you'll notice two staircases leading down to the crypt. That's where you'll find the tomb of San Francesco. His body rests in a simple stone sarcophagus placed in the pillar right beneath the high altar.
Surrounding Francesco's tomb are the graves of some of his closest friends and followers: Leo, Masseo, Rufino, and Angelo.
Tomb of Saint Francis underneath the high altar of the Basilica Inferiore.
Before heading back up, don't miss the final tomb between the two staircases. It holds the remains of Giacoma de Settesoli (Jacoba of Settesoli), a noble Roman woman who became Francesco's close friend and confidante. Francesco, therefore, fondly called her "Brother Jacoba." Jacoba was by Francesco's side when he died in the autumn of 1226.
Basilica Superiore
After visiting the crypt, head back into the Basilica Inferiore and look for the staircase on the left side of the transept. Climb up, and you'll step outside into the open air with a view over the quiet courtyard of the friary. To your right, you'll spot the basilica's gift shop. Right beside it, there's another staircase that takes you directly into the transept of the upper basilica.
The Crucifixion, by Cimabue. As you can see, most of the colors have faded, or have turned black due to oxidation.
Remember Cimabue's fresco in the lower basilica? You'll find more of his work in the transept of the Basilica Superiore. One of his most striking pieces here is the Crucifixion, a large scene that fills the wall. Sadly, it lost some of its original color over time. This is because Cimabue used white lead as a pigment for his paint. Due to oxidation, parts of the painting have darkened over time, turning sections that were once vibrant into shades of black.
The nave of the Basilica Superiore and some details of the beautifully decorated arches.
Continuing into the nave, you'll immediately notice how much more spacious the Upper Basilica feels compared to the lower one. There's also more natural light, which lets you take in the basilica’s most famous artwork. It's a cycle of 28 frescoes that depict key moments from the life of Saint Francis. If you've read the part about his life, you'll likely recognize a few scenes. The Miracle of the Crucifix, for example, shows the chapel of San Damiano, where God spoke to Francesco. Another is the Renunciation of Worldly Goods, where Francesco gives back his money and clothes to his father.
The cycle known as the Legend of San Francesco includes 28 frescoes that show important moments from Saint Francis's life. Two examples are the "Miracle of the Crucifix in the chapel of San Damiano" (bottom left) and the "Renunciation of Worldly Goods" (bottom right). In the second scene, you can see Francesco looking up at the hand of God as he declares that God alone is his true father.
Also noteworthy is the fresco right next to the exit: The Sermon to the Birds. As I mentioned earlier, Francis even preached to animals, and this scene captures one of those moments. It's said that a flock of birds gathered around him, and Francis spoke to them, saying:
"O birds, my dear brothers and sisters, you should always praise your Creator. For God has given you feathers and wings for flying. He provides you with pure air and cares for you so that you have no need to worry at all."
People believe that the tree around which the birds gathered still stands today. If you have time, consider hiking up to the Eremo delle Carceri. Here, you can visit the centuries-old holm oak and explore the quiet retreat where Francesco and his followers often went to meditate and pray in solitude and silence.
View of the high altar in the Basilica Superiore (left) and detail of the fresco of Saint Francis preaching to the birds (right).
However, let's return to the cycle of frescoes. There's still some debate among art historians about who painted it. Many believe Giotto and his workshop were behind the work, but others aren't so sure. They point out that the style here in Assisi doesn't quite match Giotto's more famous frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua.
Regardless of who painted them, the frescoes are beautiful and full of intricate detail. I really recommend taking your time. Take a seat and absorb each scene one by one. I'm curious: which one speaks to you the most? Let me know in the comments!
Once back outside, you get a clear view of the upper basilica, rising above the lower one.
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